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EVERY MAN 



ms OWN 



iiorse Doctor; 



OB 



THE TRUE WAT 



OF 



HANDLING HORSES. 



BY 



F. B^AJ^TOTV. 



miCE 75 CEIXTS. 



ROilEO: 
B. A. TBALL & CO., BOOK A5D JOB PBI^^TEBS. 

isas. 









30/3/^'' 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by 
F. BARTOW, 

In tlie District Court of the United States for the Eastern District of 



Michiizan 



J ;^, ^ ^f 2. 






INTRODUCTION 



^HE Author of this book was born in the town of Lyons, Ionia 
County, Micliigan, in the year of our Lord 1841, and when at the age of 
twelve years he lived neighbor to a man who had a span of very ugly 
colts : in fact, they were so bad there was scarcely any one in the town 
who would go into the yard where they were. Boy as he was. lie made 
up his mind to break these colts; and he used to go some half a mile 
back in the field to an old barn where the colts ran, and, all alone by 
himself, he would get them into the barn and train them. After he had 
trained them about a month, one day he was standing by when the owner 
of the colts remarked to one of his neighbors that '-he would give twen- 
ty-five dollars if he could get some one to break his colts, and would 
board them wliile they were doing it." The boy spoke up and said "what 
will you give me to break your colts for you V The man laughed at 
him, and told him that he would '-give him a .silver dollar if he would 
just go into the old barn and drive them out." '-Done !" said the boy. 
They started for the barn, and when they got there the boy got over 
into the yard and spoke to the colts; they both came up to him and he 
took one of them by the foretop, led him into the barn and the other 
followed immediately after. On entering the barn he raised a board 
from the floor, took out his father's old plough-harness and put it upon 
the colts and drove them all around the yard and Irom there to the 
house. He then hitched them to a sleigh and invited the owner to have 
a ride. "No." said he, "they will run away and break my neck and 
yours too. "I will risk that," said the boy. "I have driven them every 
day all winter, up in the back lot; and I have drawn six and seven rails 
at a time with them, around in the edge of the woods where you could 
not see me." "Well," said the man, "if that is the case, I will get in 
and see how they go." The man rode one mile and back, and^then 
he told the boy that "he would give him the twentj'-five dollars and 
ten dollars beside, if he would drive them two weeks." He did so, 
and before that time had expired the women could drive them as well 
as any one. From that day on, he was always training and handling 
horses and studying the nature of that noble animal, thehorse, and try'^ 
ing to find out what was the most natural for him. Ugly horses were 
1 lis favorites ; but within the past few years he has given up traveling or 
training horses, and has deemed it best to v/rite a small pamphlet"for 
the use of bor.se dealers and the public in general. B. 



TO THE READEE 



I am well aware that many persons have formed the erroneous 
idea that a small book cannot be worth as much as a large one. They 
seem to have overlooked the simple, but very important fact, that 
genuine value consists in merit and not in bulk. In these pages, brief- 
ness has been kept strictly in view, in order to give as much information 
as possible in a small compass. 

Probably no particular class will be as much interested or benefit- 
ed by this work, as farmers and owners of horses. The system of horse- 
trainin?, as taught in this work, will supersede all others, inasmuch as 
it is the best and only true system. Never before, has there been such 
a vast amount of valuable information, in reference to this noble ani- 
mal, concentrated and published in any one volume for the benefit of 
the community at large. The Author. 



EVEKY MAN HIS OWN HOESE DOCTOK. 



This Book contains a full and complete Essnj on the proper 
treatment of that noble animal, the horse. How to train and educate, 
how to keep him in the best condition, also how to prevent and cure 
the numerous diseases to which he is liable. And now I present this 
book to the community at large, with the most earnest wish and hops, 
that its great hnportance and true value will be fully appreciated. 



The True Way to Break Horses. 

The first, and most important thing to be accomplished, is to win 
the horse's confidence ; which may be done by uniform actions of a 
kindly disposition in his management. He takes man for what he 
proves himself by actions. By kind treatment, he learns to associate 
with man's feelings of protection and security, and he can have no fear 
or doubt, because never taught to doubt by deception. The child has 
confidence in his parents in proportion to the fidelity of the parents, in 
inculcating and practicing those principles of truth in his early train- 
ing. But once findini them unmindful of their promises, confidence 
in th?m is corresp-^ndingly impaired. If you are faithful in fulfilling 
your promises to the child, he will expect exactly what you promise. — 
Here proof becomes faith ; because he has never been deceived by the 
want of performance. J]ven among men, the principle is the same — that 
that man who is always found truthful, and who performs exactly as 
he promises, becomes a standard of public confidence and trust — but 
he who disregards truth and principles of honor, becomes an object of 
suspicion to all knowing iiim. As the child, then, is the reflex of the 
love and truth of the parents in confidence and the public in him of un- 
doubted integrity, so we are forced to believe, the horse becomes in 
the character of his habits, what he is, in exact proportion to the teach- 
ing and example to which he may have been subject. 



Sow to Feed^ Water ^ and Drive Horses. 

Do not feed or water heavy just before driving, filling the stomach 
with water and food. Water destroys the juices of the stomach, 
weakening digestion ; the grain becomes swollen and generates a gas, 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



fillinw the stomach with wind; the storaacli becoming diseased the hot 
will work his head into the coating of the stomach. All grain will di- 
gest best while the horse is standing still, and all food tliat passes off 
without digestion, weakens the action of the stomach and bowels, and 
in man)' cases will scour the horse. The less you feed just before dri- 
ving the better. Then again, yon sliould water very little on the road, 
and feed most]\' at night ; the food will then digest and make fiesh and 
blood. T should advise not more than two quarts in the morning and 
the same at noon. I do not feed in the morning, neither do I water. — 
If I was going to make a long and fast drive, I should feed twelve 
quarts the niglit before, then my horse would feel strong, light and ac- 
tive, and do his work easy. By giving him a little water, the horse 
will fully digest what he has eaten ; if you weaken the juices, of course 
you weaken digestion. A horse should only be fed what he can easily 
digest. I think by so doing you will save one third of the grain form- 
erly given. Diseases are caused by too much food and water. AVater 
destroys the juices and disables digestion. By feeding most of the grain 
while the horse is at rest, it will digest and leave the horse strong and 
able to do his work ; giving a great amount of water diseases the blood 
and diseases the haii-, the water having to pass in some way: it cannot ail 
jjass in the urine, and therefore passes off through the pores of the skin 
and causes the hair to become gummed and makes the horse very hard 
to clean. So much water passing off through the pores of the flesh, de- 
stroys the roots of the hair and causes it to look dull and ftided. Then 
again, you should be cautious not to drive your horse into cold water 
or throw water on him when warm ; so doing chills the blood and sep- 
arates it from the watery substance that the blood forms from, and 
causes diseases. The skin will become full of small tumors and the hair 
fall off. By avoiding too much water on the road, and too much food 
before driving, and by keeping the horse warm after driving, you avoid 
disease, 



Special Advice in Reference to Feeding Horses. 

Never give a horse whole grain. By bruising and Avetting it, you 
save thirty per cent, of its nutritious effect. Steam it in preference to 
wetting if you have the facilities for so doing. Feed your horse two 
hours before he begins his day's work; give him the largest feed at 
night. Never tie him to a rack; it is cruel to thus prevent a horse 
from lying down when he is tired. The best way, is to take away your 
rack altogether, and arrange your stable so as to make it unnecessary 
to tie him at all. The stable should always be dry and well littered. 
Neve'- give your horse hard water if soft water can be obtained ; if you 
cannot get soft water, draw the hard water from the well two hours be- 
fore you let him drink it. Beans should be full a year old before they 
are fit to feed to horses, and they should be bruised the same as grain, 
not grouod. 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



Morse-Feed Mixture. 

Youatt recommends the following mixture for horse feed : Of cut 
hay two parts, cut sti-aw three parts, add to this a quantity of bruised 
beans, oats or other grain ; wet the whole with soft water and mix it 
well. Do not feed your horse too much hay, as it is not only a waste of 
provender, but when he is. put to work with an overloaded stomach it 
endangers his wind. If left to pull hay out of a rack at pleasure, a 
horse will eat, or waste some thirty pounds a day, whereas by cutting 
the hay and mixing it with other feed as above described, ten pounds 
is an abundance for twenty-four hours. Horses when worked should 
be fed three times a day, with a mixture of hay. straw and grain, as 
above described. Give them their food in the manger, and be careful 
that it is hweet and clean. By following these rules, horses will then 
always be in good condition, will not have that swelled belly so pecu- 
liar to animals who are allowed to fill their stomachs with hay. and 
will usually enjoy good health. 

B.010 to get a Colt from Pasture. 

Go to the pasture and walk quietly around the whole herd, at 
such a distance as not to cause them to scare or run, then approach them 
slowly. If they raise up their heads and seem to be frightened, hold 
on till the}'- become quiet again, so as not to run them before you are 
close enough to drive them in the direction you want them to go. When 
you begin to drive do not begin to flourish your arms nor halloo, but 
gently follow them oft', leaving the direction clear which you wish them 
to take, thus taking advantage of their ignorance, you will be able to 
get them in the pound as easily as the hunter does the quails into his 
net : for if the}'^ have always run in the pasture, uncared for. as many 
horses do in prairie countries and on large plantations, there is no rea- 
son why the3^ should not be as wild as the sportsman's birds, and require 
the same gentle treatmant if you want to get them without trouble. — 
The horse in his natural state, is as wild as any of the undomesticated 
animals, though more easily tamed than most of them. 



Hoio to Stahle a Colt. 

The next step will be to get the horse into a stable or shed. This 
should be done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite any suspicion 
in the horse of any danger befalling him. The best way to do this, is 
to lead a broken horse into the stable first, and hitch him; then quietly 
walk around the colt and let him go in of his own accord; be deliber- 
ate and slow in your movements, for one wrong movement may fright- 
en your horse and make him think it necessary to escape at all hazards, 
for the safety of his life, and thus make two hour's work of a ten min- 



EVERY UAUt filS OWN HORSE DOCTOa 



utes job, which would be all your own fault and entirely unnecessary, 
for he will not run unless you run after him; nor will trj^ to break away 
unless you try to force him into measures; if he does not see the way 
at once, and is a little fretful about going in, do not undertake to drive 
him, but give him a little less room outside by gently closing in around 
hiiij. Do not raise your arms, but let them hang at your side, for you 
might as well raise a club. The horse has never studied anatomy, and 
does not know but they will unhiniie themselves and fly at him. If he 
attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do not run; and if he gets 
past you, encircle him again in the same quiet manner, and lie will soon 
leaiTi that you are not going to hurt him; then you can walk so close 
aiound him that he will walk into the stable lor more room, and to get 
farmer out of your w;iy. As soon as he is in, remove the quiet horse 
and shut the door. This will ))e his first notion of confinement, not 
knowing how he got into such a place, nor how to get out of it. that he 
may take it as (]uietly as possible, see that the shed is entirely free of 
dogs, chickens or anythins that would have a tendency to annoy him ; 
then give him a few ears of corn and let him remain alone for about 
half an hour, until he has examined his apartment and become recon- 
ciled to his confinement. Now while your horse is eating, see that your 
halter is all ready, and reflect upon the best mode of operation for in 
horse-bieaking, it is highly important that you should be governed by 
some svstem. 



The Ohjcct of Fear — JIoiv to Frevent Fear in a Horse. 

Wljatever the horse imderstands to be hai'mless he does not fear — 
consequently, great pains should be taken in causing him to examine 
and smell such things as are likety to frighten him in after life. This 
should be attended to in his early education, since early impressions 
ave strong in the horse. A log or stump by the roadside, if regarded 
with suspicion, should be approached slowly and cautiously. To the 
imagination of the horse, such things are supposed to be some great 
beast that may spring upon him, but which he will soon comprehend to 
be harmless if oldigod to examine its nature in his own way, by ad- 
vancing to the object quietly and allowing him to undei stand it fully, 
by smelling and breathing with the nose. The boy frightened by a 
false lace, will care noihing about it after he takes it in his hands and 
examines it. The principle is the ^arae in familiarizing horses to ob- 
jects of tear. If your horse is frightened at an umbrella you can soon 
"learn him to be used to that. Go into the stable, first let him look at 
the umbrella before it is opened; let him touch it with his nose; open 
it a little way and let him see io, and finally open it wide before him. — 
By ordinary patience, you can soon learn the horse to have the umbrel- 
la Opened sudenly in his fice, without his being afraid of it. By simi- 
lar treatment you can break any horse from scaring at almost anything 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR, 



that may look fiightful to him. If you wish to make a trial of this 
theory, just take a horse into the stable and let him examine the fright- 
ful objects a few minutes, alter his own mode of examining things and 
you will be perfectly satisfied. There is a singular fact connected with 
taming the horse, that I would never have believed it if I had not tried 
it. If you accustom him to any particular object, by showing it to him 
on one sigle only, he will not be afraid when he sees it with the eye on 
that side, but he will be afraid if you approach him with it on the oth- 
er side. It is therefore necessary to jjacify him on both sides in all ca- 
ses. After you have accustomed him to the umbrella, or whatever yon 
may wish to make him familiar with on his right side, repeat the op- 
eration on the left side in the same manner, as if you had not approach- 
ed him at all. 



Tlie Kind of Salter to Use, and liow to Use it. 
Never use a rope halter; the cords of the rope are hard, and ap- 
pear to aggravate and excite distrust rather than confidence; but by 
all means [)focure a leathei- halter, made of bridle-leather, so it will 
feel soft and pliable to the touch, and to fit rather tightly on the head, 
so as not to feel uncomfortable. Before putting a halter on the colt, he 
must be rendered familiar with it, by caressing him and permitting 
him to examine the article with his nose, then place a portion of it over 
his iiead, occasionally giving it a slight pull, and in a few minutes he 
will be accustomed to these liberties, and then the halter may be fasten- 
ed on properly. To teach him to lead, is another difficulty. Stand a lit- 
tle on one side, rub his nose and forehead, take hold of the strap and 
pull it gentlj', and the same time touch him lightly with a long whip 
across his hind legs. This will make him advance a step; repeat the 
oi)eration several times, and he will soon leain to follow you by simply 
pulling ihe halter. The mouth of the colt should be frequently han- 
dled ; alter which, introduce a plain snaffle bit between his teeth and 
hold it there with one hand, while you caress him with the other. — 
After a time he will allow the bridle to be placed upon him, when the 
saddle may be brought in and rubbed against his nose, neck and legs. 
Next hang the stirrup strap across his back and gradually place the 
saddle in its proper posiiion upon the horse. The first time the girth 
is buckled, it should be done so loosely as not to attract his attention — 
subsequently it can be tightened without inspiring him with fear, which 
if fastened immediately would most certainly do. In this manner the 
wildest colt can be effectually subjugated by such imperceptible de- 
grees, that he gives tacit obedience, before he is aware of his altered 
condition. 

To Break a Horse to Harness. 
Take him into a tight stable, take the harness and go through the 



10 ETEKT MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR- 

same process as you would witli the saddle, until you get him familiar 
with it, so you can put it on his back and rattle it around without his 
caring for them. As soon as he will bear them, put on the lines, caressing 
him as you draw them over him, and drive him about in the sliible till 
he will bear them over his hips. The lines are a great asgravaiion to 
some colts, and often fiighten them as much as if you were to raise a 
whip over them. As soon as he is familiar with the lines and harness, 
take him out and put him by the side of a gentle horse and go through the 
same process that you did with the blinds. When you are breaking a 
horse to harness, after fixing the lines, hitch the horse to a small log 
that he can r^raw very easy, with long traces, frequently turning him so 
that the traces will draw licjhtly a<irii)»st iiis legs, frecjuently stopi)ing 
and petting him. Then hitch him to something heavier, and get behind 
him and drive h'm. By thus working with him you will make a strict- 
ly true horse of him. He also gets so that he is not afraid of the traces 
or harness, and then you can proceed to hitch him to a wagon. Per- 
sons should not drive fast at first. In first hitching a colt in harness 
he should be handled very careful. In handling colts in this way, you 
will have no trouble with them, but you will have a much better broke 
hoi'se ; and one that will be much safer for the family. A horse broken 
in this way, is not half so easily spoiled as one that is broken by any 
othet process. In breaking horses to ride, they should be handled in 
very much the same way as I have spoken of. After bitting them suffi- 
ciently, you may proceed to saddle them ; then ride them two or three 
miles at a time, very slowly, not far enough to tire them. 



To Breah Uorf^es to Stand the iire of a Gun. 

You commence by administering the three articles first mentioned, 
in the nostrils ; this will prevent his smelling the powder. Then load 
your pistol, but very light, so as to make the report as light as possible. 
Every time you fire give him a small piece of an apple with some pow- 
der on it at the same time rubbing and Y)attincr him on the head and 
neck. When you first commence firing stand close to the horse's shoul- 
ders, and rest your arm on his withers. After you have fired a sufficient 
number of times, mount the horse and shoot from his back. Keeping 
up this practice for a short time, the horse will get so that he will not 
care anything about the firing of a gun at any time or place. 



Necessity of a Thorough Training. 

The horse must be convinced, by reneated proofs of being over- 
matched, that resistance is useless ; for. since his willingness and rebel- 
lion are based upon the limited reasoning of his experience, he must be 
thoroughly coavinced by experience that unconditional siibailssion is 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOll. U 

the only alternative. This you cannot prove to the understanding of 
the horse without repeating your lessons until he submits uncondition- 
ally ; but, as nursing and care is to the patient over the force of dis- 
ease, so is the subjugation of the horse. His submission should be en- 
couraged and rewarded by kindness and leelins from the hand, with 
little presents of such things as he likes. That master is supreme in 
his cont^rol, and submission to his commands becomes a pleasure, who 
has the power to enforce his will, but who exercises with the sweeten- 
ing encouragement of love. While force is necessary and you have the 
means of making your horse almost a plaything in your hands, let the 
silken chord of love be the cement that fixes and secures this submis- 
sion, A good natured, clever man. it is admitted, can teach a horse al- 
most anything; and it has become a proverb, that "kindness will lead 
an elephant by a hair." Show your horse exactly what you want him 
to do, and endeavor to use the patience and reason in teaching and con- 
troling him you would believe necessary for yourself to understand, if 
placed in like circumstances, ignorant of the language and intentions 
of such a teacher, who even preserved his patience and refrained from 
abuse, what progress would you make as a pupil, gifted as you are, 
with all your intelligence 1 If possible, ennoble and elevate your feei- 
inos by realizing your responsibility to yourself, to the community, and 
to the noble animal committed to your charge. Make your horse a 
friend by kindness and good treatment. Be a kind master, and not a 
tyrant. Make your horse a willing servant and not a slave. 

JSoio to Proceed with a Colt after Haltering. 

The first time you halter a colt, you should stand on the left side, 
pretty well back to his shoulder, taking hold of that part of the halter 
which goes around his neck. Then with your two hands about his 
neck, you can hold his head to you, and raise the halter on without mak- 
ing him dodge, as he would by. putting your hands about his nose. You 
should have a long rope or strap ready, and as soon as you have the 
halter on attach this to it, so that you can let him walk the length of 
the stable without letting go the strap, or without making him pull on 
the halter ; for, if you only let him feel the weight of your hand on the 
halter, and give him more rope when he runs from you, he will never 
rear, pull, or throw himself; yet you will be holding him all the time, 
and doing more towards gentling him, than if you had the power to 
snub him right up and hold him to one spot; because he knows nothing 
about his strength, and if you do not do anything to make him pull, he 
will never know what he can do in that way. In a few minutes you 
can begin to control him with the halter. Then shorten the distance 
between yourself and the horse, by taking up the strap in your hand. 
As soon a she will allow you to hold him by a tolerably short strap, 
aad to step up to him without flying back, you can begin to give him 



12 EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 

some idea about leading. But to do this, do not go before and attempt 
to puil him after you. bat commence by pulling him very quietly to 
one side. He has nothing to brace either side of his neck, therefore 
will soon yield to a steady, aradual pull of the halter. As soon as you 
Ijave ])alled him a step or two to one side, step up and caress him, tlien 
pull him again; rei)eating this operation until you can pull him in any 
direction, and walk about the stable with him. This you can do in a 
few minutes, for he will soon think, when you have made him step to 
the riiiht or left a few times, that he is com{)eI]ed to follow the pull of 
the halter, not knowing that he has the power to resist your pulling. — 
Besides you have handled him so gently that he is not afraid of you, 
but rather likes you. After you have given him a few lessons of this 
kind at proper intervals, he will be so tame that if you turn him out to 
pasture he will come up to you to be caressed every oportunity he has. 
While training him in the stable you should lead him about some time 
before you take him out, opening the door so that he can see out, lead- 
ing him up to1t and back again, and then past it. See that there is 
nothing on the outside to make him jump when you lead him out, and 
as you go out wiih him try to make him go very slowly, catching hold 
of the halter close to the jaw with your left hand, while the right is 
resting on the top of his neck holding to his mane. Do not allow any 
one to be present, or in sight, during your operations, either in or out- 
side the stable. If you are entirely alone, and manage your colt right- 
ly, you will soon be able to lead and hold him as easily as you could a 
horse already broken. 

Do not fry to force the colt if excited. When excited, the colt is 
not in a condition to understand what you require of him, or to be 
submissive. You should also be careful not to train the colt so long 
that he will become heated and confused. But little should be required 
at a time, and hold to that point until you gain it thoroughly, before 
you undertake to do more. For example, in making a colt follow, if 
lie submits ever so little, caress and reward him for it; so continue and 
you will have no trouble. When you resort to force, do it sharply, so 
as to impress him as much as possible with your power. 



JIoiv to Proceed if a Colt is Stublorn, 

If the animal you are operating upon, seems to be of stubborn or 
mulish disposition, rather than wild, if he lay back his ears as you ap- 
proach him, or turn his heels to kick you, he has not that regard or 
tear of man that he should have to enable you to h?ndle him quickly 
and easily ; and it might do well to give him a few cuts with the whip 
about the legs, pretty close to the body. It will crack keen "as it plies 
about the legs, and crack of the whip will effect him as much as the 
stroke. Besides one sharp cut about the legs will be of more effect 
than two or three over the back, the skin on the inner part of the legs 



EVERY MAW HIS OWK HOKSE DOCTOR. 13 



or about the flanks being thiner and more lender than on his back.. Do 
not whip him much, only just enough to scare him. It is not to hurt 
the horse that we whip him ; we do it to scare a bad disposition out of 
him. But whatever you do, do quickly, sharply, and with a good deal 
of fire ; but always without anger. If you scare him at all, you must 
do it at once. Never go into a pitched battle with your horse, and whip 
him unti*! he is mad, and will fight you. You had better not touch him 
at all ; for you will establish, instead of fear and reason, feelings of 
resentment, hatred and ill will. It will do him no good, but harm, to 
strike him, unless you frighten him. If you succeed in frightening him, 
you can whip him without making him mad, for fea'- and anger never 
exist together in ihe horse, and as soon as one is visible you will find 
the other has disappeared. As soon as you have frightened him so that 
he will stand up straight and pay some attention to you, approach him 
and caress him a good deal more than you whipped him ; thus you will 
excite the two controling passions of his nature, love and fear. He will 
love you and fear you too, and as soon as he learns what you require, 
he will obey quickly. If the colt if is of too mulish a disposition to 
yield to careful and gentle treatment, you must resort to the several 
measures recommended for taming vicious horses. 



To Male a Colt Follow Under the Whip. ■ 

After the colt comes around to j-ou readily by pulling a little on 
the halter, and lollow.s freely, take your whip in the right hand, pull up- 
on the halter a little saying "come here, sir," and at the same time tap 
lightly with the whip over the hips; he will come to you mainly be- 
cause you have taught him to yield to a slight pull upon the head, and 
will come to you at this signal, because he wishes to get away from the 
touch of the whip behind. As soon as he comes to you carress hTni 
and fee;l tVom youi- hand with somet^hing he likes. Repeat this each 
time pulling upon the halter until he will come to you as readi'ly by 
tapping with the whip as he did at first to the halter'. Now instead of 
hitting him with the whip, commence by snapping it behind him ; if he 
come, caress and encourage him as betoie, and so repeat ; at each time 
increasing the distance from him, until he will follow or come to you 
quickly by cracking the whip, A few lessons of the foregoing kind 
will make him run after you when he sees the motion of the'^whip. In 
twenty or thirty minutes he will follow you around the stable. After 
you have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him in a 
small lot and tiain him ; and from thence you can take him into the 
road and make him follow you anvAvhere and run after you like a dog. 

How to Male a JSorse Stand Without Hitching, 
After yoa have well broken him to follow you, stand him iu the 



14 ETErRY THA^ HIS OW^ HORSE DOCTOR. 

centre of the stable, begin nt his head to caress liim, and gradually work 
backwards ; if he moves give him a cut with the whip and put him ))ack 
to the same spot from where he started. If he stands, caress him as 
before, and continue gentUno him in this way until you can get around, 
him without mnkins him move. Keep walking around him, increasing 
your pace, and only touch him occaj>ionly. Enlarge your cii'cle as you 
walk around, if he then moves give him another cut of a whip, and put 
h m back to his place and begin anew. If he stand, go to him fre- 
quently and caress him, and then walk around him again. Don't keep 
him in one position too louii at a time, but nuke him come to j'ou occa- 
siotially and follow you around the stable; th'-n stand him in another 
place and proceed as before. You should not train your hoise more 
than an hour at a time. 



Uow to Lead a Colt with a Brohen Horse. 

If you want lo lead y(»u]' colt by the side of another horse, you 
must first put the horse into the stab.'e wiili the colt. You first attach 
a second stra]) to the colt's halter, and lead your horse up along side of 
him ; tiien get on the broken horse and t;ike one strap around his 
breast, under the maitingales, if he has one on, holdincf it in your left 
liand. This will i)revent tlie colt from getting back too far, besides you 
have more power to hold him with the straj) j)u!lin2 aiiainst the horse's 
breast. The other strap take up in your right hand to prevent him 
from running ahead, then turn him about in the stable, and if the door 
is wide enontjh, ride out with him in that position. If not. take the 
broke ho'se out first, and stand liis breast up against the door; then 
lead the colt to the same s{)ot, and take the 8tra|)S as before directed, 
one on each side of his neck, and then let some one start the colt, and 
as lie comes out turn your horse to the left and you will have them 
right. You can man ige any kind of a colt in this way without trouble; 
for if he tries to run ahead, or i)nll back, the two strajjS will bi-ing the 
two hor.ses facing each other, so that you can very easily follow u}* his 
movfuients without doinar much holding, and as soon as he stops run- 
ning backwards you aie right with him and all ready to go ahead. If 
he gets stubborn and does not waiit to so, you can remove all his stub- 
bornness by ridins your horse against his neck, thus compelling him to 
turn to the risht, and as soon as you have turned him about a few 
tiiues he will be willintr to go along. The next thing, after you are 
through leading him, will be to take him into a stable and hitch him in 
such a Wiiy as not to have him j)ull on the halter. 



^ How to get a Colt into a Stahle, 

You shotild lead a broken horse into the stable first, and get the 
colt, if you can, lo follow in alt^ar him. If he refuse to go, step up to 



EVERT MAN HTS OtV"N HORSE DOCTOR, 16 

him, taking a litlle switch in your right hand; then take hold of 
the halter close to his head with the left hand, at the same time reach- 
ing over his back with your right arm so that you can tap him on the 
oppofite side with your switch. Bring him up facing the door, tap him 
slightly with your switch, reaching as far back as possible. This tap- 
ping, by being pretty well back, and on the opposite side, will drive 
him ahead and keep him close to you. Then by giving him the right 
direction with your leit hand, you can walk into the stable with him. I 
have walked colts into the stable in less than a minute, after men had 
worked at them over half an hour trying to pull them in. If you can 
not walk him in at once in this way, turn him about and walk him 
around awhile until you can get him up to the door Avithout pulling at 
him ; then let him stand a few minutes, keeping his head in the right 
direction with the halter, and he will soon walk in of his own accord. 
Never attempt to pull a colt into the stable. That would make him 
think at once that it Avas a dangerous place : and if lio was not afraid 
of it before, he would be then ; besides, we do not want him to know 
anything about pulh'ng on the lialter. It you want to tie up a colt, put 
him in a tolerabJy wide stall, which should r,ot be too long, and should 
be connected by a bar or ro{)e to a partition, so that alter the colt is in 
he cannot go far enough back to pull on the halter; then by tying in 
the center of the stall, it would be imi)ossible for him to pull on the 
halter, the pariition behind preventing him f'om pulling back, the hal- 
ter checking him every time he turns to the right or left. In a stall of 
this kind you can break any hoi'se to stand tied with a light strap any- 
where without his ever knowing anything about pulling, for if you have 
broken your horse to lead and have taught him the use of the halter, 
which ycu always should do before you hitch him to anything, j^oucan 
hitch him in any kind of a stall ; and if you give him something to eat, 
to keep him up to his place for a few minutes at first, there is not one 
in one hundred that will pull at the halter or ever attempt to do so. — 
This is an important feature in breaking the colt, for it he is allowed to 
pull on the halter at ?11, and ])articularly if he finds that he can break 
the lialter, he will never be safe. The most powerful means of learning 
a colt to lead is by the use of what is designated as the "Eureka Bri- 
dle." 



Sow to Malce a Eurelia Bridle. 

Take a cotton cord, or fine yarn, such as is sometimes used for 
bed cords, or clothes lines, usually about three-eighths of an inch thick. 
If you cannot get cotton cord, hemp or anything of that kind that is 
stronof enough, will answer the purpose. 

Lf t it be about fiiteen feet long. Tie one end into a hard knot, just as 
you would to prevent its raveling. Tie another knot about a foot from 
the one in the end. But before you draw it tight, put the knot on the 



16 EVERY^ MAN HIS OWN HOR8E DOCTOR. 

end throuCTh ; you have now a loop that will not slip, made on the same 
principle that a rope is tied around the neck of a horse to hitch ^Yith, 
so as not to tighten upon the neck by pullins on it. This loop should 
he just larfze enough to slip over the under jaw of the horse you wish 
to train. Put this loop over the lower jaw ; then while standing on the 
near side, take the coi'd in the left hand and bring it over the neck by 
passing the left hand under the neck to the opposite side towards the 
mane ; bring the right hand over the neck and take the cord trom the 
left and pass back to the loop and put through from the top side, until 
the part over the neck is drawn down like a check rein. Now take 
hold of the end of the rein and you wiil find you have a means of pow- 
er in it that makes the strongest horse almost a plaything in your 
hands. The objection to the use of this bridle in the training of the in- 
nocent colt is, that the ignorant are inconsiderate in its use instead of 
usn)g it with the utmost kindness, a little resistance on the part of the 
colt is made an excxise lo use it the most severe manner, until the colt 
either submits nncomlitionally, or becomes so desperate with pain as to 
become entirely reckless and regardless of the utmost efforts. When 
your horse lesists too much, you will always find it to your advantage 
to iiut him away for a short time until he becomes cool. In fact, the 
great secret of training is in not training too long, and repeating. If you 
intend using the Eureka Bridle as a means of subduing your colt, put 
it on after you hamper him, on three legs with the strap over the back. 
As soon as he submits cleverly to this step, instead of fastening up the 
leg as by the method already described, take off your strap ; then put 
on the bridie gently. Step to one side, and back, and say "come here, 
sir." pulling a very little upon the bridle, just enough to bring his head 
towards you a littie. Now step up to him and pat him on the neck, and 
say, '-you are a fine fellow." then try again in the same way, and so re- 
peat until he will come to you quite freely. You may increase yoiu- 
force u[)on the bridle in proportion to his submission, but not if he 
shows stubboi-nness. You may then step to the other side and repeat 
the lesson until he will come to you either way cheerfully. If you wish 
him to follow you. continue your training in this way, gradually pull- 
ing a little on a line with his body, until he will follow you as well 
ahead, as he does sidewise. 

Hoiv to Breah a Horse to Ride. 
If a colt, 3^ou must first supple the muscles of his back, before 
permitting much weight to be carried. You must keep in mind that he 
is not accustomed to carry weight and to put one hundred and fifty on, 
would be entirely wrong. You must make the colt understand that 
you are his friend. It will require but a few days to supple the mus- 
cels of the neck and back, then you have a horse that will guide easily. 
After the first three days tha horse will carry one hundred and twenty 
fivo pounds easior than at first he would tweaty. You will now fasten 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



the saddle on, but not too far forward. Bnckle the girths tight, and 
let Iiim remain about ten minutes ; then approach him gently, pat him 
on the neck, and draw up the reins tight with the left hand to the 
withers ; then pat him gentl}' on the back and rump, speaking very low 
during the time; then rise gently, throwing the right leg over the sad- 
dle and^sit perfectly still for a few moments, then dismount and caress 
him, patting his head and back. After doing so a few times he Avill be 
as submissive as a lamb. 



Handling the Feet of a JQ.or8e. 

Should the colt refuse to have his feet handled, he may be made to 
submit by reproving with the bridle, and putting a small strap on the 
hind foot ; then pull on this strap and pull the foot up. At the moment 
he kicks, bring down on the mouth sharply Mith the bridle; in a 
short time he will submit to your control unconditionally. The same 
principle applies to this under all circumstances. It is a means of re- 
proof, and certainly has a powerful effect upon the horse. 

How to teach a Horse to Pace. 

First, take nine or ten pounds of lead, divide into four parts, equal 
to three and three-quarters by four and a half inches in size; make two 
holes in each end of these leads, then fasten two together and have 
them padded. Then fasten them on the horses leg's, one on each hind 
leg just above the ankle joint. Ride your horse briskly with these 
weights upon his ankles, at the same time pulling each rein of the bri- 
dle alternately. By this means you immediately throw him into a pace. 
After you have in this way trained him, to some extent, change your 
leaden weights to something lighter; leather paddings or something 
equal to it will answer the purpose. Let him wear these weights until 
he is perfectly trained. By adopting this plan you will speedily make 
a smooth and easy pacer of any horse. 



Management of Wild Horses. 

Cause your horse or colt to be put in a small yard or stable. If in 
a stable, it ought to be large in order to give him some exercise with 
the halter. Before you lead him out, if the horse belongs to that class 
that only appears to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently into 
the stable or yard where the horse is. He will naturally run from you 
and frequently turn his head toward j^ou, but you must walk about ex- 
tremely slow and softly, so that he can see you whenever he turns his 
head towards you, which he never fails to do. In a short time, in a 
quarter or halt an hour, (I never knew one to be much longer without 
turning his head towards me) at the very moment he turns his head, 



18 EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



hold out your left hand towards him. and stand yjerfectly still ; keeping 
your eyes upon ihe horse, watching his motions, if he makes any. If 
the horse does not stir in the course of fifieen minutes, advance as slow- 
ly as possible, and without making the least noise, always holding out 
your left hand. If the horse makes the least motion when you advance 
towards him, stop, and remain i>eriectly still until he is quiet ; remain 
a few moments, and then advance again in the same slow and almost 
impercei)tib]e manner. II the horse then stirs again, stop without chang- 
ing your position. It is very uncommon for the horse to stir more than 
once after you begin to advance, yet there are some exceptions. He 
generally keeps his eyes steadfast upon you until you get near enough 
to touch him on the forehead. When you are thus near to him, raise 
your hand slowly, and by degree?', and let it come in contact with that 
part just above the nostrils, if possible. If the horse flinches, (as many 
will,) repeat with great rapidity, those light strokes upon the forehead, 
going a little farther up towards his ears by degrees, and descending 
with the same rapidity until he will let you handle his forehead all over. 
Now let the strokes be repeated with more force over all his forehead, 
descending by lighter strokes to each side of his head, until you can 
handle that part with equal facility ; then touch in the same light man- 
ner, making your hand fiiisers play around the lower part of tlie horse's 
ears, coming down now and then to his forehead, which may be looked 
upon as the helm that govei'ns all the rest. Having succeeded in hand- 
ling his eais, advance towards the neck with the same precautions, and 
in the same manner, observing always to augment the force of the strokes 
whenever the horse will permit it. Perform the same on both sides of 
the neck, until he lets you take it in your arms without flinching, Pro- 
ceed in the same progressive manner to the sides, and then to the back 
of the horse. Every time the horse shows any nervousness, return 
immediately to the forehead, as the true standard, patting him with 
your hands, and thence rapidly to where you had already arrived, al- 
ways gaining ground a considerable distance farther on, every time this 
happens. The head, ears, neck, and body, being thus gentled, proceed 
from the back to the roots of the tail. This must be managed with 
dexterity, as a horse is never to be depended on that is skittish about 
the tail. Let your hand fall lightly and rapidly on that part next to the 
body a minute or two, and then you will begin to give it a slight pull 
upwards, every third or fourth stroke, at the same time you continue 
this handling of him, augment the force of the strokes, as well as rais- 
ing the tail, until you can raise it and handle it with the greatest of 
ease, which commonly happens in a quarter of an hour with most horses; 
in others, almost immediately, and in some much longer. It now re- 
mains to handle all his legs. From the tail come back again to the 
head, handle it well, as likewise the ears, breast, and neck, speaking 
now and then to the horse, but very low. Begin by degrees to descend 
to the legs, always ascending and descending, gaining ground every 



EVERY MAIT HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 19 



time you descend, until you get to his feet. Talk to the horse while 
you are thus taming him. Let him hear the sound of your voice, which 
at the beginning of the operation will not be so necessary, but which I 
have always done in handling horse's feet. ''Hold up your foot," you 
will say, at the same time lifting up his foot with your hand. He soon 
becomes familiar with the sounds, and will hold up his foot at com- 
mand. Then proceed to the hind, and go on in the same manner ; and 
in a short time the horse will let you lilt them and even take them up 
in your arms. All this operation is no magnetism, nor galvanism. It 
is merely taking away the fear the horse generally has of the man, and 
familiarizing the animal with his master. As the horse doubtless ex- 
periences a certain pleasure from this handling, he will soon become 
gentle under it, and show a very marked attachment to his keeper. 



The Kind of Bit to Use, and How to Use it. 
To accustom a colt to the bit, you should use a large smooth snaf- 
fle, so as not to hurt his mouth, with a bar at each side to prevent it 
from pulling through either ways. This should be attached to the 
headstall of your bridle, and put onto your colt, with out any reins to 
it, and let him run loose in a large stable or shed, some time, until he 
become a little used to the bit and will bear it without trying to get it 
out of his mouth. Repeat this several times before you do anything 
more with colt, and as soon as he will bear the bit, attach a single rein 
to it without any martingale. You should also have a halter on him, or 
a bridle made afler the fashion of a halter, with a strap to it, so that 
you can hold or lead him about without pulling much on the bit. Ig- 
norant farmers will put a bitting harness on the colt the first thing they 
do, buckling it on as light as they can draw it., to make him carry his 
head, and then turn him out into a lot to run half a day at a time. This 
is one of the very worst punishments they can inflict on a colt, and is 
very injurious to a young horse that has been used to running in pas- 
ture, with his head down. I have seen colts so injured in this way, 
that they never got over it, and the same men could not plead igno- 
rance for I told them better, but they were of the class of men who 
always know more than any one else. A horse should be well accus- 
tomed to the bit before putting on the bitting harness, and when you 
first bit him you should only rein his head up even with his body, let 
that point be high enough, and he will soon learn that he cannot lower 
his head and that raising it a little will loosen the bit in his mouth ; this 
will give him an idea of raising his head to loosen the bit and then you 
can draw the bit a little tighter every time that you put it on, and he 
will raise his head to loosen it. By this means you will gradually get 
his head and neck in the position you want him to carry it and give him 
a nice and graceful carriage without hurting him, making him mad or 
causing his mouth to get sore. Horses that have their head drawn up 
tightly should not have the bitting on more than fifteen minutes at a 
time. 



20 Every man his own horse doctor. 



How to Make a Bitting Bridhfor an Unruly Horse. 

Take the Euieka Bridle already described, and fix a loop upon the 
other end jiisL like that already used to put around the jaw, but laro:e 
enough to ,50 over the head and fit over the neck rather tight where the 
collar is woiii; now bring 3'our cord forward, put it through the mouth 
from the off side and bring back on the near side and put through the 
loop around the neck, pull upon this cord and the head will be drawn 
back to the breast; you are now prepared to bit; simply pull upon the 
cord a little tighter and so repeat for five or ten minutes, then stop bit- 
ting and repeat at some future time until you have the horse entirely 
under your contiol. 



How to Saddle a Colt. 

Any one man who has this theoiy can i)ut a saddle on the wildest 
horse that ever gi-ew. without any help and without scaring him. The 
first thing will be to tie each stirrup sirap into a loose not to make them 
short and to pievent the stii-iup from playing about and hitting him; 
then double up the skirts and take the saddle on your right arm so as 
not to frighten him, rub him gently a few times with your liand, then 
raise the saddle very slowly until he can see it, smell it and feel it with 
his nose, then let the skirts loose and rub it very gently against his neck 
the way the hair lays, letting him hear the rattle of the skirts as he 
feels them agait st him, each time a little further backward, and finally 
slip it over onto his back, shake it a little witii your hands, and in less 
than five minutes you can rattle it about over his back as much as you 
please, and pull it off and throw it on again without his paying much 
attention to it. As soon as you have accustomed him to the saddle, 
fasten the girth. Be carefid how you do this, for it often frightens the 
colt when he feels the girth binding him and making the saddle fit tight 
on his back. You should bring up the girth very gently and not draw 
it too tight at first, just enough to hold the saddle on, move him a lit- 
tle and girth as tight as you please and he will not mind it. You should 
see that the pad of your saddle i^ all right before you put it on, and 
that there is nothing to make it hurt him or feel unpleasant to his back. 
It should not have any loose straps on the back part of it to flap 
about and scare him. After you have saddled him in this way, take a 
switch in your right hand to tap him up with, walk around in the stable 
a few times with your right hand over the saddle, taking hold of the 
ring on each side of his neck with your right and left hands, thus march- 
ing him about the stable until you teach him the use of the bridle and 
can turn him about in any direction and stop him by a gentle pull on 
the rein ; always caressing him, and loosening the reins a little every 
time you stop him. You should always be alone and have your colt in 
some light stable or shed the first time you ride him. The lolt should 
be high so that you can sit on his back without endangering your head. 



EVERT MAIS' HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. a 



You can teach him more in two hours' time in a stable of this kind than 
you could in two weeks in the usual way of breaking colts out in an 
open place. If you follow my course of treatment you need not run 
any risk or have any trouble in riding the worst kind of a horse. You 
take him, a step at a time until you get up a mutual confidence and 
trust between yourself and horse. First teach him to lead and stand 
hitched ; next acquaint him with the saddle and the use of the bit, and 
then all that remains is to get on him without scaring him, and you can 
ride him as well as any horse. 

How to Mount a Colt. 

First gentle him well on both sides about the saddle and all over, 
until he will stand still without holding and is not afraid to see you 
anywhere about him. As soon as you have done this get a small block 
about one foot in height and set it down beside him, about where you 
want to stand to mount him. Step up on this, raising yourself gently. 
Horses notice every change of position very closely and if you were to 
step up suddenly on the block it would be very apt to scare him, but by 
raising yourself gradually on it he will see you without being frighten- 
ed, in a position very nearly the same as when you are on his back. As 
soon as he will bear this without alarm, untie the stirrup strap next to 
you and put your left foot in the stirrup and s;and square over it, hold- 
ing your knee against the horse and your toe out so as -to touch him 
under the fore shoulder with the toe of your boot. Place your right 
hand on the front of the saddle and on the opposite side of you, taking 
hold of a portion of the mane and reins, they hang loosely over his neck, 
wiih your left hand ; then gradually bear your weight on the stirrup and 
on your right hand until the horse feels your whole weight on the stir- 
ru]). Repeat this several times, each time raising yourself a little high- 
er from the block until he will allow you to put your leg over his croop 
and place yourself in the saddle. Another, and in some cases, a bet- 
ter way of mounting, is to j)ress the i)alm of your hand on the oflT side 
of the saddle and as y(m raise lenn j'^ur weight upon it. By this means 
you can mount with the girths loose or without any girths at all. There 
are three great advantages in having a block to mount from: first, a 
sudden change of position is very apt to frighten a young horse that has 
never been handled. Ho will allow you to walk to him and stand by 
his side without scaring at you, because you have gentled him in that 
position; but if you get down on your hands and knees and crawl 
towards him he will be very much frightened, and upon the same prin- 
ciple he would frighten at your new position if you had the power to 
hold yourself over his back without touching him. Then the first great 
advantage of the block is to gradually gentle him to that new position 
in which he will see you when you ride him. Secondly, by the process 
of holding your weight in the stirrup and on your hand you can grad- 



iJVETir MAIS" HIS 0\Yl!f HOUSE DOCTOR, 



nail}' accustom him to your wei2;ht so as not to frighten him by feel- 
ing it all at once. In the third phice, the block elevates you so that 
you will not have to make a spring in order to get on the horse's buck, 
but from it you can orradualiy raise yourself into the saddle. When 
you take iheso precautions, there is no horse so wild but that you 
can mount him without making him jump. 1 have tried it on the 
worst horses that I could find in the cmuitry, and have never failed in 
any case. When mounting, your horse should always stand without 
beino held. A horse is never well broke when he has to be held with a 
tioht rein when mounting, and a colt is never so safe to mount ns when 
you see that assurance of confidence and absence of fear which ca.ise 
him to stand without holdins. 



JIoiv to Hide a Coif. 

When you want a colt to start do not touch him on the side with 
your heel or do an\ thing to frighten or make him jump at once. Si)eak 
to Iiim kindly and if he does not start ])ull him a little to the left until 
he does so. Then let him walk off slowly wiih the reins loose. Walk 
him around in the stable a few times until he ^ets used to the bit and 
you can turn him about in every direction and stop him as you please. 
It will be well to get off and on a good many times until he is perfectly 
used to it before you take him out of the stable. After you have train- 
ed him in this way, which should not lake more than two or three hours, 
you can ride him anywhere you choose without ever having him jump 
or make any effort to throw you. When you first lake him out of the 
stable be very gentle with him as he will feel more at liberty to jump or 
run and be easier frightened than when he was in the stable, but you 
will neveriheless find him {)retty well broke and will be able to manage 
him without nuich trouble or danger. Whn you mount a colt take a 
little the shortest hold on the left rein so thai if any thing trightens him 
you can prevent him from jumping by ])ulling his head around to you. 
This o))eralion of pulling the horse's head around against liis side will 
pi event him from jiunping ahead, gearing up or miming away. If he is 
stubborn and will not go, you can make him move by pulling his head 
around to one^^ide and keeping it there till he does move. When whip- 
ping would have no effect, turning him around a few times will make 
liim dizzy and then by letting him have his head straight and giving 
him a little touch with the wdiip he will go along without any trouble. 
Never use maitiiigales on a colt. When you first ride him every move- 
ment of the hand should be right to the b.t in the direction in which 
it is ai)plied to the leii :s, without a martingale to change the direction 
of the force apj)lied You can guide the colt much better without it 
an<l teach him the use of tho bit in much less tinip, besides martingales 
would prevent you from pulling his head round if he should jump. Af- 
ter your colt has been ridden until be is gentle and well accustomed to 



EVERT MAN HIS O'WN HORSE DOCTOR. 23 



the bit you may find it an advantacre if he carries his head to high or 
his nose too far out to put martingales on him. You should be careful 
not 10 ride your colt so far as to heat, worry or tire him ; set off as soon 
as you see he is a little fatigued, gentle him and let him rest. This will 
make him kind to you and prevent his getting stubborn or mad. 

Foot Strap, and How to use it. 

Take a common strap or rope about the size of the Eureka Bridle, 
the bi-idie will do by untying one of the loops, fasten the end untied 
carefully to the fore foot below the fetterlock, pass the other end over 
the belly-band of the harness and carry it back to the left side to the 
sulky, over the holdback strap of the breeching, and hold it as a third rein 
in your hand. You h?ve in this strap or cord connected with the foot 
in this way, a means of control, with which you can almost as easil}' as 
if a plaything, control a horse while moving in the harness, and embod- 
ies one of the most valuable and effective means of controling a horse 
in harness yet demonstrated. If the horse attempts to run away, sim- 
ply pulling upon your strap throws him instantly upon three legs, and 
he has to stop ; if he attempts to kick, the same remedy stops him ; if 
he attempts to kick you. attract his attention forward instantly and at 
the same time make it impossible for him to kick. 



Row to Prevent a Horse from Running Away, 

■ Pat on the foot strap and when he attempts to run take up his 
foot, make him run, tripping him every time he will not stop at the word 
"whoa." Should he be of an extremely willful character he may run 
on three legs. If you mistrust so, attach another strap to the opposite 
foot ; then make him run and if he will not run for the taking up of the 
second, which will destroy his confidence at once, when one stiap will 
answer just as well. Make your lessons thorough so the horse will 
stop every time at the word "whoa". Although I have given a power- 
ful means or coercion and of impressing the horse of his inability to 
resist the will of man, still, practical and thorough as are these means, 
they are of but little account if not used with prudence and judgment. 



How to Mal^e a Horse Lie Down. 

Everything we desire to teach a horse must be commenced in such 
a way as to give him an idea of what we want him to do, and then be 
repeated until he learns it perfectly. To make a horse lie down bend 
his left lore leg and slip a loop over it so that he cannot let it down ; 
then ]nit a surcingle around his body and tasten one end of alojig strap 
around the other fore leg just above the hoof; place the other end of 
the strap under the surcingle so aa to keep the strap in the right direc- 



24 EVERY MAN HIS OWI^T SORSE DOCTOR. 

tion. Take a short hold of it with your risht hand, stand on the left 
side of the horse, grasp the bit in your lelt hand, pull steadily on the 
strap with your right, bear against his shoulder till you cause him to 
move; as soon as he lifts his weight your pulling will raise the other 
foot and he will have to come on his knees. Keep the strap tight in 
your hand so that he cannot straighten his leg; if he raises up hold him 
in this position and turn his head towards you; bear againt;t his side 
with your shoulder, not hard, but with a steady, equal pressure, and in 
about ten minutes he will lie down. As soon as he lies down he will be 
completely coiuiuered and you can handle him as you please. Take off 
the straps and straighten out his legs ; rub him slightly about the face 
and neck the way the hair lies ; handle all his legs and after he has laid 
ten or twenty minutes let him get up again. After resting liim a short 
time make him lie down as before. Repeat the operation three or four 
times which will be sutficient for one lesson. Give him two lessons a 
day and when you have trained him three days in this way he will lie 
down by taking hold of one foot. As soon as he is well broken to lie 
down in this way, tap him on the opposite leg with a stick when you 
take hold of his foot, and in a few days he will lie down at the mere 
motion of the stick. 



Kicking in the Stall. 

To cure a horse of this habit, put on the saddle part of a harness 
and buckle it on tightly ; then take a short strap with a ring attached 
and buckle it around the forward foot below the fetterlock; to this 
short straj) attach another strap which bring up and pass through the 
turret, then return to the foot and run through the ring in the short 
strap ; then i)ass over the belly-band and tie to the hind leg below the 
fetterU)ck. With th'S attachment on each side, the moment the horse 
kicks he pulls his feet from under him and trips himself upon his knees 
which he will be very careful not to do but a few times. 



Hoiv to Tame a Horse with Vicious Hahits. 
Having given full instruction relative to a system of dealing with 
young colis I will now proceed to detail the plan ol ojjeration for tam- 
ing and subduing wild or vicious horses. The princ![)les of this method 
are the same as those in the management of colts. — kindness and gen- 
tleness — but the practice differs. When you desire to subdue a horse 
that is very wild or has a vicious dis[>osition take up one fore foot and 
bend his knee till his hoof is bottom upwards and nearly touching his 
body ; then slip a loop over his knee and shove it up till it comes above 
the pastern joint to keep it up, being careful to draw the loop together 
between the hoof an 1 pastern joint with a second strap to pievent the 
loop slipping down and coming off. This will leave the horse standing 
on three legs. You can now handle him as you wish for it is utterly 



EVERY MAN HIS OVTN HORBE DOCTOR. 



impossible for him to kick in this position. There is soraethinof in this 
operation of taking up one foot that conquers a horse quicker and bet- 
ter than auyihino; else that you do to him, and there is no process in the 
world equal to it in breaking a kicking horse, for in conquering one 
membej- you conquer to a great extent the whole horse. You can do 
anything you wish with the horse in this condition, as when he becomes 
convinced of his incapacity to cope with man he will abandon all an- 
tagonistic demonstration and become willing to obey and be generally 
docile. Operate on your horse in this manner as often as the occasion 
requires and you will soon find him as gentle as his nature will permit 
him to be. By these means the most vicious, uneasy, unruly or fretful 
horse may be cured, though it depends upon the age and disposition of 
the hoise, how long it will take to make him amiable. When you first 
fasten up a horse's foot he will sometimes get very mad and strike with 
his knee and try every possible way to get it down, but as he cannot 
do that he will soon give up. Conquering a horse in this manner is bet- 
ter than anything else yon could do, and leaves him without any possi- 
ble danger of hurting himself or you either, for after you have tied up 
his foot you can sit down and look at him till he gives up. When you 
find he is conquered go to him, let down his foot, rub his leg with your 
hand, caress him and let him rest a few minutes ; then put it up again. 
Repeat this a few times, always putting up the same foot, and he will 
soon learn to travel on three legs, so that you can drive him some dis- 
tance. As soon as he gets a little used to this way of traveling, put on 
your harness and hitch him to a sulky. If he is the worse kicking 
horse that ever raised a foot, you need not be afraid of his doing any 
damage while he has one foot up, for he cannot kick, neither can he run 
fast enough to do any harm ; and if he is the wildest horse that ever 
had a harness on, and had run away every time he has been harnessed, 
you can now hiLch him to a sulky and drive him as j'ou please. You 
can let him have the lines and whip too, with perfect safety, for he can 
go at but a slow gait on three legs, and will soon be tired and ready to 
stop. Only hold him enough to guide him in the right direction and he 
will i?oon be tired and willing to stop at the word. Thus you will effec- 
tually cure him at once of any further notion of running off". Kicknig 
horses have always been the dread of everybody. You always hear 
men say when they speak about a bad hbrse, "I don't care what he 
does so he don't kick." This new mode is an effectual cure for that 
worst of all habits. There are plenty of ways by which you can hitch 
a kicking horse and force him to go, though he kicks all the time, but 
this does not have any good effect towards breaking him, for we know 
that horses kick because they are airaid of what is behind them ; and 
when they kick against it and it hurts them they will kick the harder, 
and this will hurt them still more and make them remember the scrape 
much longer, and make it more difficult to persuade them to have any con- 
fideuoe in anything dragging behind them ever after ; but by this new 



26 EVERY MAN HIS 0\^N HOR8E DOCTOR. 



method j^ou can harness them to a rattling sulkj^ plow, wagon or any- 
thing else in its worst shape ; they may be frightened at first, but can- 
not kick or do anything to hurt themselves, and will soon find that 
3'ou do not intend to hurt them, and they will not care anything more 
about it. You can then let down ihe leg and drive along gently with- 
out any farther ti-ouble. By this process a bad kicking horse can be 
learned to go gentle in harness in a few hours' time. 

How to Cure Bad Kiclcers. 

For extremely bad kickers, or horses hard to shoe, the following 
method will be found the most eft'ectual : Put on a common rope or 
strap halier with a hitchinij rope or strap about twice as long as the 
horse's body. Have around the body a common surcingle, then pass the 
rone or str;ip between the fore legs, over the surcingle, back around the 
hind feet, below the fetterlocks, and forward over the surcmgle, be- 
tween the le<[s and tie short into the halter beneath the jaw. Mow make 
him kick, and you Avill find that he reproves himself in the most severe 
manner, and in a short time will submit unconditionally. Care should 
be taken against chafing the foot by the action of the rope or strap 
around the fetterlocks. If you can attach a little strap around each 
foot with rings in them, through which run the strap or rope from the 
head instead of around the feet. Horses extremely bad about kicking 
when handled about the feet, or in being shod, yield readily to this 
mode of treatment. Arter a horse has suluniited he should always be 
caressed and treated in a kind and gentle maimer. For driving in har- 
ness attach to a comiuon halter headstall a strap about six feet long, 
over which put a two inch ring, then tie the strap into the halter ; now 
pass this double strap down between the fore legs so that the ring will 
extend just back of the belly-band ; then buckle around each hind foot 
below the feteriock short straps with rings attached ; to these rings at- 
tach a rope which is passed throush the ring in the halter, just enough 
to enable the horse to stand naturally. Iri this condition it will be seen 
that the horse has sufficient freedom to walk and trot, but the moment 
he attempts to kick he reproves himself by the attachment to the head. 



How to Hitch a Horse to a Sulhj. 

Lead the horse to and around the sulky, let him look at it, touch 
it with his nose and stand by it until he does not care anything about 
it, then pull the shafts a little to tiie left and stand the horse in front of 
the off wheel ; let some one stand on the right side of the horse and 
hold him by the bit while you stand on the left side facing the sulky. 
This will keep him straiiiht ; run your hand back and rest it upon his 
hip and lay hold of the shafts with your right, bringing them up very 
gently to the left hand, which remains stationary. Do not let anything 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 57. 

but your arm touch his back, and as soon as you have the shafts di- 
rectly over him Jet the person on the opposite side take hold of one of 
them and lower them very gently to the shatt bearers. Be very slow 
and deliberate about hitching; the longer time you take the better, as 
a general thing. When you have the shatts placed, shake them slightly 
so that he' will feel them against his sides. As soon as he will bear 
them without scaring, fasten your traces, etc., and start him slowly ; let 
one man lead him to keep him quiet while the other gradually works 
back with the lines until he can get behind and drive him. After you 
have driven him a short distance in this way you can get into the sulky 
and all will go right. It is very important to have your horse go gen- 
tle when you first hitch him up. After you have walked him awhile 
there is not half so much danger of his scaring- Men do very wrong 
in jumping up behind a horse to drive him as soon as they have him 
hitched. There are too many things for him to comprehend at once. 
The shafts, the lines, the harness, and the rattling of the sulky all tend 
to scare him, and he must be made familiar with them by degrees. If 
your horse is very wild I would advise you to put up one foot the first 
time vou drive him. 



How to train Horses for the Chaise, 

It will not require a very vivid imagination for those that use the 
chaise much, to know that there is a great difference in the motion of 
the chaise, and what makes the difference is the gait of the horses, and 
those who would purchase a good chaise horse must purchase a short 
gaited one. A long gaited horse gives an unpleasant motion to the 
chaise. Now any horse of good action will make a good chaise horse, 
if you shorten his gait. To do this, you must use a net, this being like 
a breast collar ; it must be two feet and a half long ; it must now be 
attached to the collar and harness and worn long, reaching the knees. 
The cords in the fringe to this must be about four inches apart, and on 
each cord there must be four balls an inch and a half in diameter. — 
There must be a similar net on the breeching, reaching around the flank 
and meeting the one in front; this net must hang below the gambril?; 
then use a string of smaller balls on the fore feet of one inch in diam- 
eter — they will effectually shorten the gait. You should be careful in 
the first exercise after the putting on of the net. Drive or lead the 
horse around after the harness and net are on before putting him in the 
chaise. After a short time he can be hitched in and driven, but not 
fast, until his gait is confirmed. After a few days practice you will have 
a fine chaise horse. Some of the best chaise horses become so from 
having sore feet which make them step short. If you will attend to 
the remarks I make on shoeing and take care of the feet otherwise your 
horse will never have contracted feet. . . . . ... 



Ev©RT MAiir ms owa!7 horse ixxjtor. 



To Train a Horse to stand when you are getting mto a Carriage. 

There are many horses that are very gentle after starting, but who 
Avill not stand to let more tli;in one get in ; they will then rear up and 
start veiy suddenly, and if stopped th' y become stubborn and refuse 
to btart when called on. People then usually punish them with the 
whip or by kicking them, sometimes in the belly, which is very dan- 
geious, as they have thus been ruptured. Now with such a horse as 
this you should commence in this way : after he is hitched, caress him 
about the head, then take hold of the reins and put your foot upon the 
step and shake the carriage; if he starts, pull gradually on the reins, 
and at the same time speak low, "whoa, my boy," or something like it; 
then approach his liead and give him a piece of apple, carress him on 
the head between the eyes and on the nose and neck. Continue this 
kind of treatment a few minutes, and when you get in don't allow him 
to start off in a hurry — walk him off. After after a few repetitions of 
this exercise he will be perfectly submissive. 



Salter Fulling. 

It is a very easy matter to break up this bad habit. Put on the 
Eureka Bridle and train the horse until he will come to you readily 
when you pull upon him a little sideways. Simply repeat this gradu- 
ally, a little more in a line with his body at each repetition,, until he 
will yield as readily at being pulled forward as sideways; then put on 
a surcingle around his body ; now lead the horse to a manger or post ; 
run the halter strap through the rins or hole and pass it back between 
the fore less, over the surcingle, and tie to the hind les below the fet-. 
terlock. If your halter strap is not lonir enough sp'ice a piece to it. 
Your horse so fastened, step forward to his head and make him pull. 
Of course he will go 1 aik with a rush, but the moment he attempts go- 
ing back, the halter strap pulls directly upon the hind leg, which not 
only disconceils him but makes it impossible for him to pull. The 
nu)st halter pullers will not pull over two or three times wlieu so hitch- 
ed, but success in this, as well as all other cases, depends much on the 
prudence and good judgment used in managing the case. 

How to Manage Balhj Horses. 

Horses know nothing about balking until they are forced into it by 
bad minaaement. Whrn a horse balks in harness it is generally from 
some mismanagement, excitement, confusion, or from not knowing how 
to pull, but seldom from any unwillingness to perform all that he un- 
derstands. Hi2[h spirited, free going horses are the most subject to 
balking, and only so because drivers do not properly understand how 
to maaago lUia kind. A free horae iu a team may be so anxious to go 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 29 



that when he hears the word he will start with a jarap, which will 
not move the load but give him so severe a jerk on the shoulders that 
he will fly back and stop the other horse. The teamster will continue 
his driving without any cessation and by the time he has the slow horse 
started again he will find tliat the free horse has made another jump 
and again flown back, and now he has them badly baulked and so con- 
fused that neither one of them knows what the matter is or how to 
start the load. Next will come the slashing and cracking of the whip 
and hallooing of the driver until something is broken or untill he is 
through with his course of treatment ; but what a mistake the driver 
commits by whipping his horse for this act. Reason and common sense 
should teach him that the horse was willing and anxious to go, but did 
not know how to start the load ; and should he whip him for that 1 if 
so, he should whip him for not knowing how to talk. A man that wants 
to act with reason should not fly into a passion, but should always 
think before he strikes. It takes a steady pressure against the collar to 
move a load, and you cannot expect him to act with a steady, determ- 
ined Ipurpose while you are whipping him. There is hardly one balk- 
ing horse in five hundred that will pull from a whipping ; it only adds 
fuel to the fire and will make him more liable to balk another time. — 
You always see horses that have been balked a few times turn their 
head and look back as soon as they are frustrated a little ; this is be- 
cause they have been whipped and are afraid of what is behind them. 
This is an invariable rule with balky horses, just as much as it is for 
them to look around at their sides when they have the bots. In either 
/'ase they are deserving of the same sympathy and the same kind of 
rational treatment. When your horse balks or is a little excited, or if 
he wants to start quickly, or looks around and don't waut to go, there 
is something wrong and he needs kind treatment immediately. Caress 
him kindly and if he don't understand at once what you want him to do 
he will not be so much excited as to jump and break things, and do 
everything wrong through fear. As long as j'ou calm and keep down 
excitement of the horse there are ten chances to have him understand 
you where there would not be one under harsh treatment ; and then 
the little flare-up would not carry with it any unfavorable recollections 
and he would soon forget all about it and learn to pull true. Almost 
every wrong act the horse commits is from mismanagement, fear, oi"' 
excitement- One harsh word will so excite a nervous horse as to in- 
crease his pulse ten beats in a minute. Almost any team, when balked, 
will start kindly if you let them stand five or ten minutes as though 
there was nothing wrong and then speak to them with a steady voice 
and turn them a little to the right and left so as to get them in motion 
before they feel the pinch of the load. If you want to start a team 
that you are not driving yourself, that has been balked, fooled, and 
whipped for some time, go to them and hang the lines on the hames so 
that they will be perfectly loose, make the driver and spectators, if 



30 EVERT MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



there are any, stand at some distance on one side so as not to attract 
the attention of the horses, unloose the check rein so that they can get 
their heads down if they choose, let them stand a few minutes in this 
condition, until you can see that they are a little composed ; while they 
are standing you should be about their heads gentling them. It makes 
them a little more kind and the spectators will think you are doing 
,3omething that they do not understand, and will not learn the secret. 
When you have them ready to start stand before them, and as yon sel- 
dom have but one balky horse in a team get as near in front of him as 
you can and if he is too fast for the other horse let his nose come 
against your breast; this will keep him steady, for he will go slow 
rather than run against you. Turn them gently to the right with the 
wagon, have it in a favorable position for starting, letting them pull on 
the traces as far as the tongue will let them go. Stop them with a kind 
word, gentle them a little and turn them back to the left by the same pro- 
cess. You will have them under your control by this time; as you turn 
them to the right steady them in the collar and you can take them where 
you please. Thei-e is a quicker process that will generally start a balky 
horse but not so sure : Stand him a little ahead so that his shoulder 
will be against the collar, then take up one of his fore feet in your hand 
and let the driver start them and he will go right along. If you want 
to break a horse fiom balking that has long been in the habit, you ousht 
to set a day apart for that purpose ; put him by the side of a steady 
horse, have check lines on them, tie up all the traces and straps so 
that there will be nothing to excite them ; do not rein them up but let 
them them have their heads loose ; walk them about together as slowly 
and lazily as possible; stop them and go up to the balky horse and 
gentle him, but keep him as quiet as possible. He will soon learn to 
start off at the word and stop whenever you tell him. As soon as he 
T>erforms right hitch him to an empty wagon. It would be well to 
shorten the check chain behind the steady horse, so that if necessary 
he can take the weight of the wagon. The first time you start them do 
not drive but a few rods ; watch your balky horse closely, and if you 
see that he is fjetting excited stop him before he stoj)s of his own ac- 
cord, caress him a little and start again. As soon as they will go well, 
drive them over a small hill a few times and then over a iarge one. oc- 
casionally adding a little load : this process will make any horse true 
to pull. 



Advice to tJtose ivlio Drive Horses. 

It will be to your interest, reader, to use all precaution to prevent 
a horse from becoming sick while in your hands. This can be done by 
adhering to certain rules which I will now note down ; When you leave 
the stable drive slow for a few miles unless you know how much (he 
horse has been fed. If he has just finished his meal it is very necessa- 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 31 



r}-- that he should be driven at a moderate pace on the start. If he has 
eaten a few hours be'fore this, precaution will be unnecessary. When 
you water your horse never give him more than two quarts and that 
once in two hours ; look at his mouth and if it is moist with saliva he 
does not need waterinii, but if it should be dry and if tepid water is at 
hand wash out the nostrils and mouth with it ; if not, use cold water. 
Warm water causes the saliva to exude, relieving the horse by keeping 
the mouJLh moist. If on a journey, stop at 11 A. M., and let your horse 
stand without any food for half or a whole hour, then give him one 
gallon of water and let him stand ten minutes, when he may be given 
three quarts of oats, five ears of good bright corn or three pints of 
shelled corn. After eating, let him stand two hours if you can, then 
you may put him into a brisk trot without any danger of causing dis- 
ease. I should rather have a horse driven eight or nine miles an hour, 
treated in this way, than four if started off directly after eating. By 
watering after feeding and then driving off, gases are generated in the 
stomach and give colic or set the bot at work in the membrane of the 
stomach. Again, if the horse is warm when you stop, be careful nob 
to stand him in a current of air, as he might take a disease that would 
carry him off. If in very warm weather he had better stand in the sun 
than in a draught of air. If in very cold weather, either stable him 
or clothe him when jou stop, to keep the cold air from closing the 
pores of the skin. If you are compelled to stop in the wind always 
face it ; then the air blows the way the hair lays. If in a northern cli- 
mate, in the winter, never allow a snow ball to remain in the foot, es- 
pecially if he has been driven fast and is warm ; the coffin muscle is 
relaxed by heat and the close proximity of snow would cool off the 
foot so suddenly that the muscle would shrink to the contraction and 
make him lame. Always be cautious to keep the feet from cold water 
when the horse is warm, as any sudden contact of cold with hot blood, 
either in the body or legs, would be dangerous. These precautions 
should be taken either in riding or driving. If you drive through water 
when the horse is warm, give exercise enoush to keep up the circula- 
tion, not to allow the blood to be chilled in the veins. If you adhere 
to these rules you will not be likely to have a horse injured by your 
management. 



On Choking as a means of Subduing a Horse. 

Choking is another method of conquering a skittish, subborn or re- 
fractory horse. It is to be resorted to in cases where the measures be- 
fore described LJI to produce the desired effect. The principles on 
which the plan of chokinof are baserl are that you must make a power- 
ful appeal to the intelligence of the animal, by physical means, before 
you can subdue him. Now we must know that most animals in fighting 
sieze each other by the throat, and that a dog thus held by his antago- 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 

nist for a few minutes, on beinsr released is often sp thoroughly cowed 
that no human artifice can induce him to again resume the unequal 
contest. It is then reasonable to suppose that choking will have a sim- 
ilar effect on the horse, when it can be done without injuring the ani- 
mal. It is an easy mode of subduing him, for hj its operation he be- 
comes docile and will thereafter receive any instructions which he can 
be made to understand. Teaching the horse by this means to lie down 
at our bidding tends to keep him permanently gentle towards man, for 
it is a perpetual reminder of his subdued condition. It requires a deal 
of practice to tame a horse successfully by choking, also a nice judg- 
ment to know when he is choked sufficiently, as there is a bare possi- 
bility that he might get more than would be good for him. I should 
advise persons not perfectly familiar with the horse to resort rather to 
the strapping and throwing down process, unless the animal to be op- 
erated upon is so vicious and intractable that he cannot be cured by it. 



Sow to maJce a Horse Perfectly Safe for Family Use. 
For a family horse, we should select one with a full, prominent eye 
and a broad space between them; full forehead, ears straight and point- 
ed. When in action the ears should be in motion, working back and 
forth, thus showing that he knows what is transpiring around him. He 
should have a long, thin neck and a full trumj)ed nostril, A horse of 
these points is not apt to tire on the road, for they indicate good blood. 
By giving the animal to understand that we are his friend and protect- 
or, he will feel safe and have confidence hi us. To assure him of this, 
we must caress him on the neck and head and talk softl)^ to him ; then 
if you have something that he is very fond of, by feeding him with it 
you gain his sympathy and confidence, and he will remember your kind- 
ness to him ; to us this seems reasonable. So long as he is treated with 
kindness he will be kind and gentle himself to every one handling him. 
If he should frighten at any new object, by speaking gently "whoa my 
boy," several times over ; it assures him at once that he is safe. When 
your horses are harnessed to the carriage and they wish to start before 
you are ready, do not jerk them or speak cross, but go to their heads 
and caress and soothe them, and when you get in draw the reins care- 
fully and talk kindly to them and allow them to walk off slowly. In a 
few days, with such treatment, your horses will be perfectly tractable 
and gentle. A full horse is as sensitive as a well bred man, and you 
must not halloo to liim as you might to a hog. This you may not be- 
lieve but it is so. You must never use the whip except when the horse 
knows what you want him to do and will not do it, or is lazy and re- 
quires the lash to increase the speed. Adhere to these principles of 
kindness and you will not fail to have a well trained family horse. 



On the Reariny of Colts. 
If a fine colt is desired, we must breed to a fine, thorough-blooded 



EVERT MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



horse. The colt should not be allowed to shrink for the first two j^ears; 
If the dam has not sufficient milk to keep him plump he must be fed 
on cow's milk. Feed him through the winter on dry oat meal and give 
cow's milk to drink. If a colt is allowed to shrink during the first two 
years he will never fill out again as full and plump ; his fine points will 
be undeveloped. The colt should not be kept close to a stable but al- 
lowed to run in and out at pleasure. He should not be allowed to stand 
on a plank floor at all. In the spring, as soon as the grass is good he 
should b6 turned out to pasture. 



Training Horses for Trotting. 

The horse should be in good condition and driven moderately with 
walking. Exercise him every morning, about five miles. Before 
going into quarters give him a brush for one hundred yards at the top 
of his speed, and one or two miles of moderate driving, suficient to 
sweat him, then rub dry with rubbing rag. Light rubbing is the best, 
just enough to dry the hair; hard rubbing on the bones and cords, 
causes soreness. Rub the flesh and muscles well, to harden them when 
driving. To sweat, put on two thick woolen blankets and drive at full 
speed two miles, then turn doun the hood and neck-cover and scrape 
the head and neck well, and rub dry; then cover dry, and continue the 
same over the Avhole body, rubbing lightly, and only enough to dry the 
hair, then put on nice dry covering and let him stand. Sweating often 
in this way will weaken. It should be done but seldom. Their food 
and drink should be of the purest kind ; sift their oats free from all 
dust, and dust the hay. Give about a handfull at a feed, morning and 
noon, and about twice that at night ; from twelve to sixteen quarts of 
oats per day would be a great plenty, twelve would be plenty for the 
majority of horses. Give one gallon of water in the morning, the same 
at noon. At night two gallons of water and a peck of oats, with treble 
quantity of hay. You should not exercise any horse on a full stomach, 
for then fast work hinders digestion. Grain lying undigested in the 
stomach generates a gas by fermentation, which sets the hots at work 
and produces colic. Indigestion is the cause of many diseases, and 
can be avoided by adhering to the directions for feeding, watering and 
driving, given in the first part of this book. If he is bound up, and 
you wish to physic, give bran mashes. 



On Horse Blinds or Blirilcers. 

All my experience with, and observation of horses, proves clearly 
to me that blinkers should never be used, and that the sight of the horse 
for many reasons should not be interfered with in any way. Horses are 
only fearful of objects they do not understand or are not familliar with, 
and the eye is one of the principle mediums by which this understand- 



U EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



ing and this familiarity are brought about. The horse, on account of 
his very amicable nature, can be made, in the course of time, to bear 
almost anything in any shape ; but there is a quicker process to reach 
his intelligence than wearing it into him through his skin, and however 
wild and nervous a horse may be, he can be taught in a verj"- short time 
to understand and not to iear any object however frightful in appear- 
ance. Horses can be broken in less time and better without blinkers, 
but horses that always have worn them will notice the sudden change, 
and must be treated carefully; the first drive after that they will drive 
better without the blinkers than with. I have proved it by my own ex- 
periments that a horse broken without blinkers can be driven past any 
omnibus, coach or carriage on a parallel line as close as it is possible 
for him to go without ever wavering or showing any disposition to 
dodge. I have not, in the last twelve years constantly handling horses, 
both wild and nervous, ever put blinkers on any of them, and in no 
case have they ever shied at passing objects. The horse's eye is the 
life and beauty of the animal as well as the index of his emotions ; it 
tells the driver in the most impressive characters what the hoj-se's feel- 
ings are. By it he can tell the first approach of fear in time to meet 
an}^ diflSculty. He can tell if he is happy or sad, hungry or weary. — 
The horse, too, when permitted to see, uses his eyes with great judg- 
ment. He sees with his eyes better than we do ; he can measure dis- 
tances wilh his eyes better than we can ; and, if allowed free use of 
them, would often save himself by the quickness of his sight from col- 
lisions, when the driver would fail to do so by a timely pull of the reins. 
It would also save many accidents to pedestrians in the streets, as no 
horse will run over any person that he can see. Blinkers are rapidly 
going out of use in the United States, and I have not yet found a man 
who having once left them off", could be ])ersuaded to ijiit them on 
again. They are an unncessary and injurious incumbrance to the 
horse, and in years hence M'ill be a thing to be read of as one of the 
follies happily refoimed in the nineteenth century. 



Advice to those about to Purchase a Horse. 

When about to purchase a horse, examine the eyes well ; thf best 
judges are sometimes deceived in the eyes ; therefoi'e you cannot be too 
careful. Clearness of the eyes is a sure indication of their goodness, 
but this is not all that should be tended to. The eyelids and eyebrows 
and all other parts must be considered ; for many horses whose eyes 
appear clear and brilliant, go blind at seven or eight years of age. 
Therefore be careful to observe whether the parts between the eyelids 
be full or swelled, for these are indications that the eyes will not last. 
When the eyes are remarkably flat, or sunk within their orbits, it is a 
bad sign, also when they look dead and lifeless. The iris or circle that 
surrounds the sight of the eye should be distinct, and of a pale, varie- 



EVERY MAK" HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



gated cinnamon color. This is always a sure sign of a good age, and it 
adds beauty to the appearance of the animal. Next examine the teeth, 
as 3^011 would not wish to purchase an old horse, nor a very young horse 
for service. The feet should next be regarded, for a horse with bad 
feet is like a house with a weak foundation, and will do little service. 
The feet should be smooth and tough, of a middle size without wrinkles, 
and neither too hard and brittle, nor too soft. The heels should be 
firm, and not spongy and rotten ; the frogs horny and dry ; the soles 
somewh'at hollow — somewhat like a tea saucer ; such feet will never 
disappoint your expectations, and such onlj' should be chosen. Par- 
ticular regard should be had to the shoulders ; they should not be too 
much loaded, for a horse with heav}^ shoulders can never move well, 
and on the other hand, one that has very thin shoulders and a narrow 
chest, though he may move briskly so long as he is sound, yet he is 
generally weak and easily lamed in the shoulders. A medium should 
therefore be clfosen. The body or carcass should be neither too small 
nor too large. The back should be straight, or have only a moderate 
sinking below the withers, for when the back of a horse is low, or high- 
er behind than before it is both very ugly and a sign of weakness. The 
back should also be of proper length. The ribs should be large, the 
flanks smooth and full, and the hind parts, or uppermost haunches, not 
higher than the shoulders. When the horse trots before you, observe 
if his haunches cover his fore knees. A horse with short hind quarters 
does not look well. The next thing to be regarded in a horse is his 
wind, which may be judged of by the motion of his flanks. A broken 
winded horse also pinches in his flanks with a very slow motion and 
drops them suddenly, which may be easily perceived. Many horses 
breathe thick that are not broken winded. Indeed, any horse will in 
foggy weafifcer, or if foul fed without sufficient exercise. But if a horse 
lias had good keeping and proper exercise, and yet has these symptoms, 
there is some defect, either natural or accidental, such as a narrow chest 
or some cold that has affected his lungs. There are other particulars 
that should be observed in choosing a horse. If his head be long and 
fleshy, and his neck thin and gross, he will always go heavy on the 
hand, and therefore such should never be chosen. A horse that has his 
hocks very wide seldom moves well, and one that has them too near 
will chafe and cut his legs by crossing them. Fleshy-legged horses 
are generally subject to th^ grease and other infirmities of that kind, 
and should not be chosen. The temper of a horse should be particu- 
larly attended to; avoid a fearful horse, which you may know at first 
sight by his starting, crouching, or creeping if you approach him. A 
hot and fretful horse is also to be avoided ; but the buyer should be 
careful to distinguish between a hot, fretful hoi'se, and one that is eager 
and craving. The former begins to fret the moment he is out of the 
stable, and continues in that humor till he has quite fatigued himself; 
and the latter only endeavors to be foremost in the field and is truly 



36 EVERT MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 

valuable. He has those qualities that resemble prudence and courage ; 
the other, those of intemperate heat and rashness. A horse that goes 
with his fore feet low is very apt to stumble ; and there are some that 
go so near the ground that they stumble most on even roads ; and the 
dealers to remedy this, put heavy shoes on their feet, for the heavier 
the shoes are, the higher he will lift his feet. Care also should be 
taken that the horse does not cut one leg with the other. A horse that 
goes near the ground will cut the low side of the fetlock joint ; but 
one that goes high cuts below the knee, which is called the speedy 
cut. A horse that lifts his feet high generally trots fast, but is not the 
easiest for the rider. Some horses cut with the spurn of the foot, and 
some with the heel, but this you may soon perceive by their standing ; 
for if a horse points the front of his foot inward, he cuts with the spurn, 
"and if outward, with the heel. These few instructions may be of use 
in purchasing horses ; but I would advise one to get some experimental 
knowledge of them before he trusts to his own judgment,. for the dealers 
have so many arts to hide the defects of their horses that the best of 
judges are often very much deceived. 



Sow to tell the Age of a Horse hy Ms Teeth. 

The only sure way of telling a horse's age is by the teeth, and these 
only for a certain time ; after which time there is nothing to depend on, 
although you can guess very near by the front teeth on his npper jaw, 
until he is about twelve or thirteen. This with the face of the horse 
and some other marks, enables one experienced in horses to guess very 
closely. There are six teeth above and six below in the fore part of 
the horse's mouth, from which we may judge of his age. They are call- 
ed gatherers. When a colt is foaled he has no teeth in th^ front part 
of his mouth. In a few days two more come in the upper jaw and two 
below ; again, in a few days, four more appear, but the corner teeth do 
not come for three or four months. These twelve teeth remain un- 
changed in the colt's mouth, until he is two or two and a half years 
old, when he begins to change them for permanent ones. Although the 
manner in which he has been fed regulates in a measure the time of 
change. Until he is in his eighth year, you can tell his age by his front 
teeth in the lower jaw ; so I only speak of these. At first he sheds the 
two middle teeth of the six ; these are succeeded by two permanent 
or horse teeth, of a deeper color and stronger, and grooved or fluted 
fi-om top to bottom, with a black cavity in the centre; he is now about 
three. In the latter part of the fourth year the teeth on each side of 
the centre teeth undergo the same process, and he becomes possessed 
of four horse teeth in the middle with the natural black marks in the 
centre, and one colt's tooth only on each side. He next sheds his 
corner teeth ; when he gets their succssors his mouth is full. lie has 
the black mark in all of the six teeth and is five years old. After the 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 37 



horse is seventeen, the grinders Avear down, and the nippers prevent the 
^rfnders from coming together, so he cannot masticate his food as well 
as a younger horse. 



Weights to he carried in Trotting. 

Weights to be carried by every trotting horse starting for a match, 
purse ov stake. Eveiy horse shall carry one hundred and forty-six 
pounds. If in harness, the weight of the sulky and harness not to be 
considered. Pacing horses liable to the same rule. 



Uace Distances. 

A distance of mile heat, best three in five, shall be one hundred 
yards ; for one mile heats, eighty yards ; and for every additional heat, 
an additional eighty yards. The time between heats shall be, for one 
mile, twenty, and for every additional mile, five minutes. 



To pict Horses in Good Condition. 

They need good care and clean food. Do not use Condition Pow- 
ders, or such medicines. They are not needed, and are humbugs. If 
your horse is hide bound and out of condition, give him a good purge 
of linseed oil, or castor oil, one pint. Then give bran mashes, morning 
and evening. He will soon regain his appetite, and will be all right. — 
At any time when your horse loses his appetite check his food, and 
give him a mash. Give as little medicine as possible. By this treat- 
ment you will have healthy horses. 



To leep Horses free from Diseases. 

The stable must be clean and well ventilated. There is nothing 
more conducive to good health than pure air and clean food. The ceil- 
ing of the stable should be at least ten or twelve feet high, with venti- 
lating box at the head, four inches square, running out at the roof. — 
The loft should be perfectly tight, so that the breath of the horse can- 
not rise and mix with the hay, which may be injured both in taste and 
wholesomeness. It is a bad plan to put hay in a rack. The horse 
breathes on it and makes it the less palatable and healthy. Feed from 
a box in front, and but a little at a time. He will neither waste it or 
otherwise injure it. The ventilation in the wall of the stable should be 
as high up as possible, so as not to injure him by draughts of air, from 
which he should always be kept. Filthy stables cause weak eyes, and 
a running at the nose. In many instances the decomposition of vegeta- 
ble matter and the urine give out stimulating and unhealthy vapors, 
and a strong smell of hartshorn. How can it but cause inflammation of 

10 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



the ej'es, or lungs, or glanders, and farcj^ ? Be careful to have your 
stables so that the urine will run off; but do not raise the j^lanking 
much higher at the front, than at the back, for this will cause a strain 
of the back sinews, and lameness, and thickening up of the same. It 
is an unnatural wa}' for a horse to stand. The stalls' should have holes 
in the planking, and they should always be kept open. In summer, the 
horse should always, (if he stands on a dirt fl'oor,) stand on straw, or 
litter of some kind ; it relieves the feet in stamping. It is very injuri- 
ous to keep horses in a dark stable; it is bad for their eyes, and many 
horses go blind from this cause. You should likewise avoid a glaring 
light, or white walls. Give a mellow light, with clean stabling, clean 
food, clean litter, and all will be well with the horse. 



In regard to Horse Shoeing . 

If you examine the horse's foot, while in his natural state, it will be 
be found almost round, and very elastic at the heel ; the frog broad, 
plumi), sn^l of a soft, yielding character; the commissaries open and well 
defined, and the sole concave ; the outside of the crust, from the heel 
to the toe, increased from a slight level to an angle of about forty-five 
degrees; consequently as the hoof grows it becomes wider and larger 
in proportion to the amount of horn secreted, and the narrower and 
shorter in proportion to the amount of horn cut away from the ground 
surface. If a shoe were fitted nicely and accurately to the foot, after 
being dressed down well, it would be found too narrow and short for 
the same foot, after the lapse of a few weeks. Now if any unyielding 
shoe of iron is nailed firmly to this naturally enlarged and elastic hoof, 
it prevents its natural fieedom of expansion almost wholly ; and does 
not, as the foot grows down, allow it to become wider at the quarters 
in proportion to the quantity of horn grown, as before being shod; and 
consequently the foot changes from the continued effect of the restraint 
from an almost round, and healthy foot, to a contracted and unhealthy 
condition, as genei'ally seen in horses shod for a few years. The prin- 
ciples which should govern in shoeing are few and simple ; and it is 
surprising to me that a matter involving such serious consequences 
should be conducted with so little consideration. The object of the 
slioer should be in trimming and preparing the hoof for the shoe, to 
keep the foot natural ; and this involves the cutting away of any undue 
accumulation of horn affecting in the least its health and freedom; to 
carry out in the form of the shoe, that of the foot as nearly as possible; 
to fit and fasten the shoe to the foot so as to interfere least with its 
health and elasticity. The object in nreparing the foot for the shoe 
is to remove any undue accumulation of horn destined to ])revent its 
natural bearing, and the free, healthy action of its parts; and requires 
the cutting away of about the ])ro])ortion that contact with the ground 
would have worn of, or so much as had grown since being shod last. — 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



If the shoes have been on a month, then the proportion of horn secre- 
ted in the time should be removed ; if on two months, then the propor- 
tion of two months' growth. No definite rule can be given. The judg- 
ment must be governed by the cu'cmstances of the case. The stronger 
and more rapid the growth of the foot, the more mast be cut away ; 
and the weaker and less horn produced, the less ; to the extreme of 
simply leveling the crust a little, the better to conform to the shoe. — 
There is generally a far more rapid growth at the toe than at either the 
heels or quarters. More, therefore, will require to be taken off the toe, 
than off the other parts. Therefore shorten the toe and lower the heels, 
until you succeed in bringing down the bearing surface of the hoof up- 
on the shoe to almost a level with the live horn of the sole. Be care- 
ful to make the heel level. Having lowered the crust to the necessary 
point, Avith the buttress, or knife, smooth it down ; level with the rasp, 
the sole and frog, detach the old horn by exfoliation, as it becomes su- 
perabundant ; the sole therefore would not need paring were it not for 
the restraining effeci of the shoe upon the general functions of the foot, 
which is liable to prevent such detachment of the horn. When this is 
the case, the sole should be properly dressed out with an English shave, 
the end of which is shaped like an iron used at saw mills to mark and 
measure boards. The buttress is too large and square edged to dress 
out so concave a surface properly ; and, unless great care is exercised, 
it will not only penetrate through the sole in some places, but leave 
others entirely neglected. While a good workman may work well with 
almost any kind of tools, such have also the faculty of adapting tools 
to the work. A horse's foot is not to be hacked and cut as if only a 
block of lifeless wood ; and, if even only a lifeless machine, what care 
would be found necessary to preserve its harmony of action complete. 
The buttress does not seem to be at all adapted to dressing out the sole, 
and should not be used for that purpose. While we are obliged to find 
fault with the carelessness of blacksmiths in this respect, it is with the 
spirit of kindness, sensible that we ourselves are only dull pupils in the 
work of reform. We should be particular also in impressing the neces- 
sity of not- confounding the bars with the substance of the sole, and 
cutting them down to the common level with the sole. Any man of 
common sense can see that the bearing of the bars should be the same 
as the outside of the crust upon the shoe, and that they offer a decided 
resistance to the contraction of the heels. The cutting away of the 
bars, to give the heel an 0})en a[)pearance, is inexcusable; and should 
never be done in a natural, healthy condition. The frog has a line of 
bearing with the hoof and by its elastic nature acts as a safeguard to 
the delicate machinery of the foot immediately over it, and hel|)S to 
preserve the foot in its natural state. By keeping the heels spread it 
seems to be wisely intended to cive life and health to the foot, permit- 
ting the heels to grow down. The addition of high heeled hhoes raises 
the frog from its natural position, and causes it to shrink and harden, 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN. HORSE DOCTOR. 

and bears in consequence an important influnence in setting up a dis- 
eased action that generally results in the contraction of the foot. If the 
heels are square and high, and the hoof presents rather a long, narrow 
appearance, and is hollow on the bottom, there is a state of contraction 
going on, and you must not hesitate to dress down thoroughly. Do not 
hesitate, because the foot will appear small. Cut away until you are 
well down to a level with the live horn of the sole. If the foot is weak, 
use the same prudence in not cutting away too much. The shoer must 
always bear in mind that the sole must not rest upon the shoe. The 
pole, when not clogged with old horn, acts as a spring to the weight of 
of the horse; and if it rests upon the shoe an inflammation may be caused 
by the pressure of the coffin bone upon the sensitive laminae, which is 
liable, in consequence, to be so bruised, as to cause soreness and inflam- 
mation. The effect of such bruises are the most common at the angle of 
the inner heel, Avhere the descending heel of the coffin bone, forcibly 
pressing the soft, sensible sole upon the horny sole, is apt to rupture 
one or more of the small blood vessels of the delicate fleshj^ substance con- 
necting the crust of the coffin bone of the part, causing red spots, Avhich 
are commonly called corns. Let the foot be so dressed down, and the 
shoe so approximated, that the bearing will come evenly upon the crust 
all the way round, without the sole touching the shoe. This requires 
the crust to be dressed level, and not burnt level by the shoe; and al- 
though W(?ll down to the live horn of the sole, it sould always be kept 
a little higher. The corners, between the bars and crust, should be 
well pared out, so that there is no danger of the sole resting upon the 
shoe. 



The Shoe. 
The principal object should be to have the shoe so foraied, as to 
size, weight, fitting and fastening, as to combine the most advantages of 
protection and preserve the natural tread of the foot best ; in weight it 
should be proportioned to the work or employment of the horse. If 
the horse walks principally upon the road, his shoes should be rather 
heavy. The ground surface of the shoe should correspond with the 
ground surface of the foot in its natural state, or in other words, it must 
have a concave surface corresponding with the concave surface of the 
foot. The nail holes should be punched coarse and in the centre of the 
web ; if the hind shoe, four on a side and well forward ; if the forward 
shoe, four on the outside and two or three well forward on the inside 
toe. As it is found necessary to retain the shoe, the manner of fasten- 
mg the shoe is what really affects the foot, and which requires the most 
a^pecial attention in shoeing. 



Interfering Shoes. 
First, find what part of the foot hits the opposite ankle, which you 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 41 



can do by wrapping the ankle with a rag nicely ; which color with some 
kind of coloring matter over Avhere the opposite foot hits. You can 
then tell by driving where the color adheres and what portion of the 
crust hits the ankle. Remove this portion and have the shoe set well 
under the foot, but carefully fitted so as to support the foot safely by 
the bearing of the bar and heel. The hoof should be pared lower on 
the outside to turn the ankle that the other hoof may pass clear ; yet 
if the inside sole is not dressed, the rim soon breaks and the inside is 
found to be actually lower than the outside. Shoes to prevent interfer- 
ing should be light and of narrow Aveb on the inside, with three nail 
holes near the toe. They should be straight at the point where they 
come in contact with the opposite leg. By adhering strictly to this 
principle of paring the foot and fitting and fastening of the shoe you 
will prevent a recurrence of the difficulty. Shoes to prevent over i-each- 
ing should be long, and for the forward feet heavier, especially at the 
heels, and for the hind feet light with heavy toes. The hoof should be 
well pared at the toe. 



The Foot and its Diseases. 

The crust or wall is that part which is seen when the foot is placed 
upon the ground and reaches from the hair to the ground. It is deeper 
in front, where it is called the toe, shallower at the sides, which are 
called quarters, and of least depth behind, where it is termed the heel. 
It is placed flat upon the ground, but ascends obliquely backward and 
possesses difTerent degrees of obliquity in diflterent feet. In a sound 
hoof the proper degree of standing is calculated at forty-five degrees, 
or the fourth part of a semi-circle. This crust is thicker in front, being 
about half an inch, and at the quarters and heel is very much thinner. 
It is also thinner at the inner and outer quarters where the most weight 
is thrown upon. It is under the inner splint bone on which so much 
weight rests, and being thinner it is able to expand more, its elasticity 
is called more into play, and concussion and injury are avoided on ac- 
count of its thinness and the additional weight which it bears. The in- 
ner heel wears away quicker than the outer, a circumstance which should 
never be forgotten by the smith ; his object is to give a plain and level 
bearing to the whole crust. Thus it will be unnecessary to remove but 
very little, if any, from the inner heel, as it has worn away faster than 
the outside from the greater weight it bears, which would cause corns 
and quarter cracks, and even splints ; the concussions being so much 
greater. This may all be avoided by paying a little attention when 
shoeing. 

The Frog. 

In the place between the bars, and exactly filling it, is the frog. It 
11 



42 EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



is a triangular piece of horn projecting from the sole almost on a level 
with the crust, and covering and defending a soft and spongy substance 
called the sensible frog. It is wide at the heels, and above the shell or 
crust of the foot, and runs to a point like a wedge. This is to keep the 
heel ai)art and prevent the horse from slipping. It will adhere to the ice 
like rubber. There is a cleft commencing at the hock and running 
nearly two-thirds the length of the frog, which is firmly united to the 
sole, but of a nature entirely distinct from it, being a soft, spongy sub- 
stance and very elastic. It never can be bruised until it has been cut, 
when it becomes a hard, horny substance ; and by treading on anything 
.solid when going fast, it springs or presses on the sensible part of the 
foot, and causes corns. Now this frog should never be cut or pared in 
the least. Let it look ever so ragged it is then healthy. It sheds every 
three months ; but if the knife is used it is more or less injured. 



The Sole. 

This is the inner surface of the foot, and is both concave and elas- 
tic, and extends from the crust to the bars and frog. It is not as thick 
as the crust. Notwithstanding its situation there is not as much weight 
thrown on it as there is on the crust, because it was intended to expand, 
in order to prevent concussion when the weight was thrown upon it. 
It is thicker at the toe, and where it connects with the crust. The prin- 
ciple weight is thrown upon the toe by the coffin bone wedging in. It 
is not brittle in health, and it is somewhat hollow, which gives spring to 
it and lessens the shock of striking the ground when in rapid motion ; 
for if the sole was flat there would be no spring to it, and it would be 
bruised by sudden contact with the ground. Thus you see that by cut- 
ting, the spring of the sole is injured, and the sole itself becomes dry, 
hard, and brittle ; but if you never touched it, retains the moisture, 
keeps the foot from shrinking, and keeps it healthy. 



The Coffin Bone. 

Beneath the lower pastern, and entirely enclosed in the hoof, is the 
proper bone of the foot, the coffin bone. It fills about one-half of the 
fore part of the hoof, to which it is fitted. It is light and spongy and 
filled with numerous holes through which pass the blood vessels of the 
foot. These are necessarily numerous, considering the important and 
various secretions there going on, and the circulation could not be kept 
up if these vessels did not run through the substance of the bone. The 
holes about the coffin bone cany the blood to the little bones, with 
which it is covered. Those near the lower part go to the sole. As this 
bone is enclosed in the horny box of the crust no inconvenience can 
arise from an outward pressure, for the bone allov/s free passage to the 
blood, and prevents it from every obstruction. The fore part of the 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 43 

coffin bone, besides being thus perforated, is curiously roughened for 
the attachment of numerous httle leaves on its upper surface, is a con- 
cavity for the head of the lower pastern. In front is a striking promi- 
nence into which is inserted the exterior tendon of the foot at the back. 
It is sloped for articulation with the navicular bone, and more under- 
neath it a depression for the reception of the flexor tendon. Continued 
down the leg, passing over the navicular bone, and then inserted into 
this bone, on either side, are projections called the heels of the coffin 
bone ; and the bottom is hollowed to match the internal part of the sole. 
The most particular part of the coffin bone is the production of numer- 
ous little leaves around its front and sides. They are prolongations of 
the thick and elastic membrane covering the coffin bone, and consists 
of cartilaginous fleshy plates, corresponding with, and received be- 
tween, the horny leaves that line the inside of the crust. The horny 
leaves are secreted from, or produced by the fleshy ligaments, and be- 
ing five hundred in number, their union with each other is so strong 
that they are inseparable. When the animal is at rest the whole weight 
is supported by these leaves, and not on the sole. It is the contraction 
of the coffin muscle that causes so much pain when the horse is found- 
ered. The foot is then feverish, the blood vessels are filled with hot 
blood, and the foot is very sensitive to the touch of the hammer, or any 
jar upon the crust. The elasticity of the sole prevents the foot from 
being bruised when in violent action. Between the coffin bone and horny 
sole is the sensible sole, which is of a ligamentous, or tendrous nature ; 
well supplied with blood vessels and with nervous fibres, so that it is 
very sensitive. A small stone under the shoe will cause great infla- 
mation, and corns are caused by the same. The smith needs to use 
great care in setting the shoe. 

Contracted Feet. 

Sometimes only one foot becomes contracted. This may be caused, 
in a cold climate, by leaving a snow-ball in the bottom of the foot. Af- 
ter the horse has been driven until he is very warm, the coffin muscle is 
then released by heat, and the snow-ball cools it so sudden that it con- 
tracts. In a few days the hoof shrinks to the muscles, thus contracted, 
leaving a ridge in the hoof. In a warm climate it may be caused by 
letting a horse stand, even a short time, in cool water, after exercising 
and heating the blood. If you wish to bathe your horse's legs, do it 
with warm water always. Then you avoid danger, and leave the limbs 
soft and pliable. Cutting away too much of the sole of the foot deprives 
it of the very substance which holds the moisture, and keeps the foot 
healthy. Cutting the frog makes it hard and horny, and when struck 
hard upon a stone it is pressed to the quick, causing fever. Both prac- 
tices will cause contraction. When first discovered bathe the legs, from 
the knee down, in hot water. Do this twice a day, for two weeks ; every 



44 EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



night stuffing the feet with clay. His shoes should merely rest on the 
rim of the foot. Never use a shoe with a swelled heel. When caused 
by cutting, stuff the feet with clay, and use the concave shoe. Never 
use ointments or grease of any description, upon the outside of the 
hoof, as they close the pores and create fever without remedying the 
cause of the disease. 

Thrush. 

This is a very disagreeable discharge of offensive matter from the 
cleft of the frog. It is caused from inflammation of the lower surface^of 
the sensible frog, by which pus is secreted, together with, or instead of 
horn. If the frog is sound, the cleft sinks but a little way into it : but 
by contraction, or other causes, the cleft will penetrate to the sensible 
sole within. Through this fissure the discharge proceeds. It may be 
caused by bruises or filth. The sinking in at the quai'ters will cause 
the horn to press upon the frog, or cutting the frog will cause it to be- 
come hard and horny. It can readily be distinguished from any other 
disease by the offensive smell. Run a knife blade in the fissure and the 
discharge will assure you. To cure it, first poultice with linseed meal, 
put on hot, and let it remain twelve hours ; then use a paste made of 
two ounces of blue vitriol, one ounce of white vitriol, powdered as fine 
as possible, Mix well with one pound of tar, and two pounds of lard. 
Apply this in the cleft. It may be put on tow and pushed in. Let it 
remain twelve hours, and then cleanse out with soft water and soap. 
When dry, make the second application; also renew the poultice at 
night, until all inflammation disappears. If you wish to dry it up quick, 
which I do not approve, you can use the spirits of salt, ten or fifteen 
drops at a time. Cleanse the foot out well, then crowd in fine salt and 
wash with beef brine. But in all cases of thrush, first use poultices to 
relieve the inflammation. After this, stuff the foot with clay. In dry 
weather, this will keep it cool and moist, and will make it less liable to be 
bruised. The horse should take physic during the time. To cleanse 
the blood use Barbadoes aloes, pulverized and mixed with linseed oil 
sufficient to make into balls, — dose one ounce. 

Grease. 

In many cases, swelled legs, although distinct from Grease, degen- 
erate into it. This disease is inflammation of the skin of the heel, and 
very seldom comes on the fore legs. The the skin of the heel has a pe- 
culiar greasy feeling, and when inflamed the secretion of this greasy 
matter is stopped ; the heel becomes red, dry and scurvy ; and being so 
much in motion they very soon crack, and sometimes ulceration and fun- 
gus will extend over the whole heel. The first appearance of Grease is 
usually a dry scurvy state of the skin of the heel. They should now 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 45 



be washed with castile soap and water, and relieved of all the hard sub- 
stance that can be by soakintr. Then wipe dry and sprinkle on pulver- 
ized verdigris. This will dry up ; but when the heels are badly cracked 
and ulceration has commenced, it will be necessary to poultice them 
with linseed oil; or if that is not to be had, take carrots, boiled soft, 
and mashed fine. This is a good poultice for any inflamed part. When 
the inflammation is gone and there is a healthy discharge of matter, dress 
with an ointment of one ounce of rosin, tuo ounces of honey in the 
comb, two ounces of lard, and one ounce of calamine powder. This 
cools the heels very fast. If the fungus is not entirely gone, wash with 
two drachms blue vitriol in a pint of water. It is well to give a mild 
diuretic every third day. of one table spoonfuU of pulverized rosin in a 
ball of bran mash. Give the horse bran mash while treating for this. 
Sassafras tea is good for him if the legs swell. After they are healed, 
bandage every night, and give moderate walking exercise. Give a light 
purge of linseed oil or Barbadoes aloes. 

Ciire for the Grease from Internal Causes. 

If the horse be full of flesh, the cure must be begun by bleeding, 
rowels, and repeated purging ; after which two ounces of the following 
balls should be given every other day for some time, and they will work 
by urine the day following: Four ounces of yellow rosin, two ounces 
of salts of prunel, one ounce of oil of juniper, two ounces salts of tar- 
tar, eight ounces castile soap, one ounce of camphor ; put these into a 
mortar, with about two ounces of honey, or as much as will make them 
into balls, and they will carry oflf the offending humors, and free the 
blood from its noxious qualities ; but at the same time that these in- 
ternal remedies are taken, outward ones should not be omitted. 



Founders, how Cured. 

The chest founder is produced by violent exercise on a full stom- 
ach and drinking large quantities of cold crank water, by the use of 
mouldy bran, corn, or oats, or by eating large quantities of green food, 
such as oats, wheat, peas, barley, while performing hard labor. The 
seat of the disease is in the lungs. The heart and liver are also consid- 
erably enlarged, inasmuch that there is not room for them to perform 
their office with ease. The liver, lungs, diaphragm, and surrounding 
parts are all covered with large brown spots, and are much inflamed. 
There are many persons that hold that a horse can be foundered with 
grain. This is not so. The argument given is that they have driven 
horses, or have known cases where the horse was driven under a shed 
and fed without watering. This may be so, but that is no argument, 
after all ; for a horse may be driven and stand where there is a cold 
blast of wind that would chill a horse as bad as water. This would 

12 



46 EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



create founder as well as water. Anj^thino: cold would create contrac- 
tion; where, on the contrary, grain would create heat, instead of cold; 
and heat would relax. So that argument is worth nothing. I will not 
pretend to say but that grain would injure a horse when hot. You 
might give him corn meal and it would bake in the maw, and there 
would be no passage. This would kill but not founder. You are well 
aware that to heat a tire, then place it over the felloe it is perfectly 
loose ; but when you put on cold water it contracts to the felloe and 
straiohtens the wheel. So you will see at once that it is cold that causes 
founder. Cold contracts and heat relaxes. Grain would create heat. 
To cure it, take one and a half gallons of blood from the neck vein, 
then give as a physic, six drachms of barbadoes aloes, dissolved, or in 
balls ; cover the horse up with a thick blanket, then commence bathing 
with as hot water as you can use. Keep this up for an hour at least, 
then stretch an old ])antaloon leg over each of his fore legs, bind it 
tight aiound the hoof and fill it with hot boiled oats. Give as a drink, 
.sassafras tea made from the root, and give bran mashes with a table 
spoonful of pulverized rosin. He should have a mnsh once a day for 
four or five days. This will cure him. But in case of founders of long 
standing, or even if the hoof has shrunk to the contraction of the mus- 
cle, it will be necessary to treat it somewhat differently. The bleeding 
.should be omitted, the legs bathed twice a day instead of once, and 
the feet should he poulticed with flax seed meal at night, or in day 
time, if not at work. If he could run out to a marshy pasture, it would 
not be necessary to poultice so ofien; but he must have something to 
net u|)on the blood. Take of digitalis, four drachms ; emetic tarter, 
four drachms ; nitre, six drachms ; divide these into two powders and 
give one in three days. Between the days that this is given, give bran 
mashes mixed with sassafras tea. This physic should be given once 
in three weeks. The feet always to be kept moist. It will take from 
three to four months to effect a cure, when of long standing. The mus- 
cles of the shoulder sometimes contract, as in sweeney. In this case, a 
sealon of from ten to fifteen inches long, must be used according to the 
contraction. 



The Navicular Bone. 

This is placed at the head of the colfin bone, and at the foot of the 
lower pastern, and is shaped like a wedge. Its office is to protect the 
coffin jonit at the back j)art. The frog getting dry and feverish, would 
allow the ligpments to be bruised, and cause lameness ; another reason 
why the foot needs great care. 



Quarter Oracle. 
For this, pare with a sharp knife, from the hair down, taking away 



EVERY MAN UlS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 47 



the whole back part of the hoof down to the quick. Then pare the 
other down thin, then set your shoe only so far as the hoof runs. By 
this means the shoe cannot spring down upon the heel. The hoof will 
then grow down firm and sound. 



Heaves. 

Reasons, why it is not in the lungs. If the disease was in the lungs, 
it would create inflammation, and have the same effect as inflammation 
of the lungs by cold. The horse would be weak and drooping without 
appetite, and really could not be driven two miles, as any person would 
naturally drive a horse. But a heavey horse can be driven from ten to 
twelve miles an hour. This is positive proof that it is not in the lungs. 
Take a heavey horse and turn him out to pasture for two or three days, 
and he will breathe clear and easy, showing no siglis of the heaves. — 
The grass has not reached the lungs, still it has stopped the hard 
breathing. But if you will give the horse cold water to drink, he will 
cough. Has the water touched the lungs'? No. But it has touched 
the disease. This is another reason why it is not in the lungs. I will 
tell you where the disease is, and what it is caused hj. A dainty horse 
is not liable to heaves, but a hearty eater is; not from the amount of 
food that he eats, but from the hoggish way of eating. There are two 
pipes leading to the stomach and lungs. Where they meet there is a 
throttle valve. A horse, on eating coarse food scratches his throttle; 
then by a hard d\ive, and warming the horse, he takes cold in this 
wound and it becomes a running sore, or canker. By turning the horse 
to grass, the juice cleanses and washes the wound. The grass being 
cool takes the inflammation from the disease, the swelling is gone, and 
the horse breathes as free and easy as ever. This is positive proof that 
it is not in the lungs. Then by feeding with coaise, dry hay, it irritates 
and creates inflammation and causes th<? horse to breathe hard again. — 
To cure it, take balsam of fir and balsam copaiba, equal parts; add 
calcined magnesia to make into balls ; oive a ball about the size of the 
yolk of an egg, for fourteen days. This cure I have never known to 
fail. You should be careful about feeding, for two or three weeks, af- 
ter oivjng the medicine. Feed cut feed, wet the hay, and mix in a little 
brown sugar, for a few days. 



Liing Fever. 

This disease always makes its appearance by a chill. The horse 
will shake and tremble like a i)erson with the ague. Whilst the chill 
is on, take half a pint of fine salt, put in a bottle of water, and drench 
the horse. This will release him entirely from the chill, and create pers- 
piration. He will be quite sick for a tew minutes, but it will drive 
the cold entirely out, and he will look bright and feel entirely well in a 



48 EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



few hours. But if you should not discover him while the chill is on, it 
will require different treatment. If he has been free from the chill for 
five or six hours, the symptoms will be eyes inflamed, nostrils distended, 
breath short and quick, he will stand with his head down, his pulse from 
fifty to one hundred. You will find it under the jaw, just below where 
you buckle the throat latch. By putting your ear back of the fore leg 
3'ou will hear a quick, heavy beating of the lungs. He Avill have no 
disposition to move, or eat; but will drink. He never lies down. These 
are sure signs of inflammation of the lungs. The causes of the inflam- 
mation of the lungs are many. It may be brought on by filthy stables, 
but is usually by sudden changes from heat to cold, and from cold to 
heat. The membrane that lines the cells of the lungs is very sensitive. 
There is also an intimate connection between the lungs and the pores 
of the skin. By stopping the insensible perspiration, a cold and cough 
ensue. A hort^e is driven until a sensible prespiration is pouring from 
him, then he is left in a current of air which closes the pores of the 
skin, thus arresting the perspiration and driving the inflammation, 
which it caused, to the lungs. The majority of cases are very sudden. 
At first, the pulse is not much quicker ; but the artery is plainly to be 
felt under the finger, and of its usual size. The pulse no longer in- 
dicates the expansion of the vessel. In some cases it eludes a most 
delicate touch. The legs are cold, and the nostrils expanded; the 
flanks begin to heave with a quick and hurried motion, a symptom of 
pain; the membrane of the nose is very red; he stands with his legs 
abroad, his countenance indicates suffering, and he looks mournfully 
towards his flanks. He is unable to move, scarce ever lies down, if he 
does, it is only for a moment, from actual fatigue. The duration of this 
disease is very uncertain. It will, in some cases, destro}'- in fourteen to 
twenty hours, and sometimes they will last for weeks. In sudden at- 
tacks of this kind, the lungs are entirely destroyed, resembling one solid 
mass of blood. This disease invariably makes its appearance with a 
chili. The horse commences trembling and shaking, as if half frozen. 
At this stage of the disease, you should get up a reaction. Dissolve 
half a pint of fine salt in warm water, shake it well, and give as a 
drink ; then blanket him, and in fifteen minutes he will be wet with 
perspiration. Bathe the legs in warm water. But if the fever has com- 
menced, it will require difterent treatment. If it has been on six hours, 
it will be necessary to bleed, and very severely ; so open as large an 
orifice in the vein as possible. The object is to get control of the blood. 
The heart is working very hard to force the blood through the lungs. 
Bleed until the pulse is much lower, or flutters, then bathe the legs with 
as hot water as he can bear. Bathe frequently to get up a circulation 
in the extremities. If the attack is a severe one, blister the brisket and 
the sides as high as the elbows. Use a mustard blister if it will do; if 
not, a fly blister, made with four ounces lard, one ounce rosin, and ou© 
ounce flies. It will not do to purge. 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HOKSE DOCTOR. 49 



There is so much sj'mpathy between the bowels and lungs, purg- 
ing would transfer the inflammation to the bowels. In such a case yon 
must use clysters. Take eight ounces epsom salts, dissolve in warm 
gruel, and inject. This will start the bowels, which are somewhat re- 
laxed. You must now use cooling or sedative medicines. Take of 
digitalis, one drachm, one and a half of emetic tartar, and three of nitre 
Give three times a day. This will have an immediate effect on the heait, 
lessening the number of pulsations, and producing an intermittent state 
of the pulse. Every six or seven beats, there will be a suspension, 
while two or three could be counted. From this he will amend. Now 
reduce the dose to one-half, and in a few days it will not be necessary 
to give any medicine of any kind. He should now have oat meal gruel, 
or flax-seed gruel ; they are strengthening. Mashes may be given, or 
green food, in small quantities, for inhaling, which is one of the most 
essential thing to be done. Use digitalis, one-half ounce ; nitre, one 
ounce ; and of balsam fir and copaiba, two ounces each ; mix these to- 
gether Avith one pint of spirits, and add one pint liot rain water. Cover 
the horse all over, letting the blankets i each to the ground so that no air 
can get under them ; then hold the mixture under his nose, and at the 
same time stick a hot iron in the compound and let him inhale the steam 
or fumes arising from the mixture. This will relieve the lungs from 
fever, drive the inflammation to the surface, and the cure is positive. 



Adhesive Plasters. 

These plasters should be used over parts that have been strained or 
otherwise weakened, and on deep seated inflammation of the loins, or , 
back sinews. They are always to be applied warm, when they will ad- 
here for a long time. The following is a good plaster : Take of com- 
mon pitch, five ounces ; yellow wax, one ounce ; tar, six ounces ; melt 
together. When cooled to blood heat, add half a drachm of pulverized 
cantharides, stir well together. When you apply it, warm or melt it 
over, and rub it well into the hair upon the sprain, then while it is yef 
warm, for it should be applied as hot as possible, spread over it a lint of 
tow, well picked ; pat down with the hand. This will make a strong 
covering, and will remain for months. It will gradually remove deep 
seated inflammation, and, by its pressure, promotes the absorption of 
any callous, or thickening beneath ; at the same time, as a bandage, it 
gives strength to the parts. 



Phjsicing. 

There is more injury done in the practice of this, than in any other 
medical treatment of the horse. The old practice has been to physic 
and bleed every spring ; and this is necessary where the horse is really 
sick. When you change him from the pasture to the warm stable, and 
dry food, it is also good. The horse must be prepared for it. Give 

13 



50 EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 

three or four mashes before the physic, and in the majority of cases 
they will be sufficient without it, especially if the bowels are slightly 
moved; for really the less medicine given, the better. After the j^hysic 
is given, the horse should have walking exercise for two hours, but 
when it begins to operate, he should be kept as still as possible, or the 
medicine would be likely to gripe, and perhaps irritate the intestinal 
canal, and cause inflammation. You can give him a small amount of 
hay, as much mash as he will eat, and as much water, witli the chill off, 
as he chooses to drink. If he will not drink tepid water, give him 
about a quart of cold water, every hour. When the purging ceases, 
give a mash twice a day, until you give more physic, which should be 
only once a week. Barbadoes aloes is the best purgative, being always 
sure and safe. The dose with the horse prepared by bran mashes, 
would vary from five to seven drachms, the latter sufficient for any 
horse. You can dissolve in warm water, and give as a drench, or make 
into a ball with linseed oil, and lay upon the roots of the tongue, letting 
go the tongue at the same time. Linseed oil is uncertain, but safe in 
doses from a pound to a pound and a half. It leaves the horse in very 
good condition. 



Poultices. 

Few horsemen are aware of the value of these simple preparations, 
in abating inflammation, in relieving pain, cleansing wounds, and caus- 
ing them to heal. They are the best kind of fomentations. They con- 
tinue longer, and keep the pores open. In all inflammations of the foot 
they are very beneficial, and in cases of conti-action, a poultice that re- 
tains the heat and moisture longest, is the best. They will relieve swel- 
lings, take out the soreness from the pores, and draw out the unnatural 
substances. Linseed meal makes the best poultice. It will hasten any 
tumor, that it is necessary to open, and cleanse any old one, causing a 
healthy discharge when it is oflTensive; but in this case, when the ulcers 
smell badly, add two ounces of pulverized charcoal, or chloride of lime, 
half an ounce, to one pound of meal. This is good in grease or cracked 
heels. A potiltice should never be put on tight. Carrots are very good, 
mashed fine, after boiling soft. The coal may be used in this, also, 
where the parts smell offensively. 

Wind Galls. 
This appears oftener on the hind, than on the fore legs. It is a fill- 
ing in of a mucous fluid in bags, or sacks. It is caused by tmdue press- 
ure, from violent action, and by straining the tendon. These bags in- 
flame, and fill the larger, and harder. They always form about the joint, 
as many tendons concentrate there. Very few horses are perfectly free 
from them. At first they may cause lameness, but in the majority of 
cases they do not. It has been thought that these bags were filled with 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 51 



wind, and in some cases they have been opened ; but this causes inflam- 
mation, and would lame the horse. The way to treat them is with a 
powerful blister directly on them, and then bandage. After the blister 
is formed, you must bathe it in some asstringent. A decoction of oak 
bark is good. By this treatment the mucous is taken up by the absorb- 
ents, and you will have a cure. You must be very careful in driving 
for several days. 



Action of the Kidneys on the Blood, 

The blood contains a great quantity of watery fluid, unnecessary 
for the nutriment or repair of the frame. There also mingles with it 
matter which would become noxious if allowed to accumulate too 
much. The kidneys are actually employed in separating these fluids, 
and in carrying off a substance, which, as an ingredient in the urine, is 
called the urea, and consists of what would be poisonous to the animal, 
if remaining. The kidneys are two large, glandular bodies, placed un- 
der the loins, very much the shape of a kidney bean. The right kidney 
is forward under the liver ; the left is back by the stomach and spleen. 
A large artery I'uns to each, and carries about one-sixth part of the 
whole blood that circulates through the bone. It divides into number- 
less little branches, most complicated, and coiled upon each other. — 
The blood has waste parts, which, if allowed to remain, would be very 
injurious ; and these must be sepaiated from it. The fluid separated 
varies in qnantity and composition, even during health; more so in the 
horse than any other animal; and there is no organ so much under our 
control as the kidneys. Diuretics are the most useful medicines, and at 
the same time most injurious if improperly used in fevers and inflam- 
mation aenerally. For diuretics, use m"tre and digitalis, on account of 
their sedative effects. They stimulate the kidneys to s^'parate more 
than the usual quantity of water from the blood, and lessen the quanti- 
ty of the latter. The object in this is to reduce the circulation, and 
thus ease the heart in its labor, by cahning the excitement. An over- 
flow of blood causes the heating you will notice in king fever. Diuret- 
ics lessen the blood and give more perfect control over the heart. In 
cases where the legs are swelled, the absorbents set to work and take 
up aiid pour into circulation the fluid which has been effused into them. 
The legs of some horses cannot be rendered fine, nor kept so without 
the use of diuretics ; nor can what is called grease heel, frequently 
connected with these sweHings, get cured without the use of them. — 
Always let the horse have plenty of tepid water, the more the better. 
You must always be careful not to keep him too warm, for if he sweats, 
the medicine, instead of stimulating the kidneys, passes off in perspiration. 



Antimony. 
There are several valuable preparations of this. The black sul- 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



phurate of antimony, a compound of sulphur and antimon^^, is a good 
alterative. It is given with more sulphur, and with nitre, in varying 
doses, according to the disease, and the slow and rapid eftect to be pro- 
duced. The dose, if you expect to continue it, should be at the most, 
four drachms. It should never be bought in powders, whatever may 
be the trouble to pulverize it ; for it is frequently adulterated with lead, 
magnesia, forge-dust, and arsenic. 



Sweeny. 

The disease is on the side of the lame shoulder. The horse suffer- 
ing from it will be quite lame, and will stand with one toot before the 
other ; or, if it is in both shoulders, he will change from one to the 
other. The use of the shoulder is sluggish, and in breakijig he will drag 
the foot, instead of raising it from the ground. It is caused by a strain, 
or bruise, or by favoring the foot wlien diseased in tsome other part. 
The membrane or muscle of the shoulder will shrink much, where the 
horse has not been lame long enough to know how to ease himself by 
standing. You can easily tell what the trouble is by pressing with the 
thumb upon the muscle, which may be shrunk but a little ; yet when 
you press the point effected he will shrink from the touch. The only 
way this can be cured is by a seaton, or rowel. The object of this is 
to create inflammation of the membrane. This seaton in these diseases 
should be from eight to fifteen inches in length. The best article to 
use for it is tarred rigging rope. This should be turned every day for 
two or three weeks. To insert this, yon must make an incision on the 
top through the skin and the membrane under the skin, the same at the 
bottom. Procure a long, thin, iron needle with a large eye, and thread 
with strong twine, to which fasten the rowel. Run the needle through 
the two openings, drawing the rowel throuah and then tie, leaving eight 
inches slack to tie with. In some cases it will be necessary to wet the 
rowel with oil of turpentine, or tincture of cantharides ; either will do. 
Bathe the shoulder every day Avith as warm water as he can bear. If 
it has the desired effect, it will discharge freely. This will relax and 
loosen up the membrane, and make the parts fill out smooth. Keep it 
clean by soft water and soap so that the discharge will not remove the 
hair. If you apply grease on the hair under the cut it will prevent the 
hair from comins off". 



Hide Bound. 
This is not so much a shrinking of the fatt}' substance between the 
skin and the muscles, as it is an alte'-ation of the skin itself. It is a 
drying up of the oily moisture of the skin. It thus becomes dry and 
hard. The scales to the cuticle no longer yield to the skin, but separa- 
ting in every direction, turns the hair, and gives it a rough look, which 
is an indication that the horse is out of condition. The vessels of the 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



skin and bowels, as well as the stomach, are deranged. It is a sym- 
ptom of disease of the digestive organs. At first, give a bran mash ; 
and, if it can be had, sassafras tea ; but, in severe cases, use levigated 
antimony, two drachms; nitre, three drachms; sulphur, five drachms. 
Give every night in a mash. The antimony acts on the skin, the sul- 
phur on the bowels, and the nitre on the urinary organs. Rub him, and 
give him warm clothing. The skin will become loose, and the horse be 
in condition again. 



Cough. 
Use elecampane roots, hoarhound and smartweed, with six red pep- 
per pods, to two oz. ginger root. Boil till all the strength is extracted, 
then strain through flannel. Add two quaits of molasses to every gal- 
lon of this extract, and boil all together for half an hour. Give one gill 
twice a day. Use an ox-horn, or a crooked tin horn. Raise the head, 
and draw the tongue out on the left side, put the small end of the horn 
on the roots of the tongue and empty the contents, then let go the ton- 
gue. Swab the throat every night with this mixture, using a whalebone 
with linen wrapped on the end. This is a su''e cure for coughs among 
all diseases to which the noble creature is subject. Nothing has given 
more perplexity to farriers than a settled cough. Indeed, it too often 
defies all the attempts of art ; and the horse frequently becomes asth- 
raatical or broken-winded. 



For Restoring Hair to Galled Spots on Horses. 
Take one lb. red clover blossoms and six quarts of v ater. Simmer 
to a thick syrup, then add sufficient barbary taUow to make a paste. — 
ThiS is the best ointment, for th'S purpose. tLat can be made 

For Spavin. 
Five oz. euphorbium, two oz. Spanish flies, one oz. iodine, dissolve 
with alcohol ; one-half oz. red precipitate, one oz. corrosive sublimate, 
one-half oz. quicksilver, six oz. hog's lard, six oz. Avh'te turpeniine, one 
fourth lb. verdigris ; melt the la''d and turpentine together ; theO; wh'le 
hot, add all together. Mix well. When cold, fit for use. Rub it in 
thoroughly on the spavin every day for three days, then wash clean with 
soap suds. Omit for three days and repeat for three days again, and so 
on, until a perfect cuie is produced. Should it blister, use it more 
cautiously. 



For Blood Spavin. 

One half pound blood root, one qt. alcohol, two oz. tannin, and a 
quarter of a pound of alum. M"x, and let it stand, shaking it several 
times a day, till the strength is all in the alcohol, and batbe the spavin 
twice a day, rubbing it in with the hand. 14 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



Cure for the Heaves. 
Take smartweed, steep it in boiling water till the strength is all out; 
give one quart every clay, mixed with bran, for ten days ; give green or 
cut up feed, wet with water during the operation, and it will cure. 

Anii-Sjpasmodics. 
There are but few of these, and the horse is subject to but few 
spasmodic diseases. Opium is the best for general effect, and that ex- 
erted particularly on lock-jaw. The oil of terpentine is good as a spe- 
cific for spasms of the bowels. 



Worms in the Horse. 

There are several kinds of worms in the intestines, and they are 
hurtful only when in large quantities. The long white worm resembles 
the common earth worm, and is from six to ten inches long. They are 
in the small intestines, and when in large numbers, consume much of the 
nutritive part of the food, or the mucous of the bowels; ihen the smaller 
and darker colored worm, called the needle worm, are in the large in- 
testines, in many cases. They descend into the rectum in large num- 
bers. They irritate the fundament, and annoy the horse. This is the 
trouble when they rub their tail very much. The horse shows this dis- 
ease by falling off of flesh. His hide will be tight, and the hair looks 
bad, and sets forward ; the eyes has a dull look, and at times he will 
.scringe and shrink down. He sometimes passes worms, and he cannot 
be kept in condition. Use one oz. of aloes, dissolved in warm water, 
and give as an injection. This will succeed in most of cases ; if not, 
give one pint of neatsfoot oil, as a drench, and one pint as an injection. 
This will not fail. Give mashes after this for a few days. It is well 
known that horses, which have many worms, can never thrive ; or carry 
much flesh. If the breeding of these vermin were prevented, it would 
add much to the strength of the horse, and it might be done by giving 
him a decoction of bitter herbs, such as wormwood, in spring. It may 
be steeped in hot water, and given two or three times a ueek, or a de- 
coction of wormwood, buck bean, gentian root and chamomile flowers, 
of each a large handful, boiled in a sufficient quantity of water, and 
given, will answer the end. 



Anodij7ies. 

Of these there is but one in horse practice. Opium is the only drug 
that will lull pain. It also acts as an astringent, in doses of one, two 
nnd three drachms. 



Farcy, and how to Treat it. 
When the farcy attacks only one part of a horse, and that when 



EVERY MAN UlS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 55 

the blood vessels are small, it may be easily cured ; but when the plate 
vein is affected and turns corded, and especially when the crural veins, 
within the side of the thigh, are in that condition, thecure is very dif- 
ficult; and the creature is rarely fit for anything but the lightest work 
after it. Bathe the legs every night in hot water, into which put a 
shovel of hot wood ashes, making a weak ley. When he regains his 
appetite, be very careful in feeding. Give him mashes, at least twice a 
day, until he gets his strength ; then give green food, if possible. In 
very severe cases of farcy internal medicines will be necessary. Use of 
corrosive sublimate ten grains, increased to a scruple, with two drachms 
of gentian, and one of ginger. Repeat morning and night, until the 
ulcers disappear. 

Pleurisy, how to he Treated. 

This is an attack of the membrane covering the lungs, and the 
lining of the chest, called the pleira. The symptoms are nearly the 
same as in inflammation of the lungs. The horse has no disposition to 
lie down, or move about. The neck will be the same as in lung fever, 
the nostrils distended, and the membrane of the nose very red. He 
breathes very hard, full pulse. The blood however, is not obstructed 
in its passage through the lungs. By pressing on his side he will give 
symptoms of pain, in a very decided grunt. Blister both sides of the 
chest, and bathe the legs with hot water ; or boil bran and put on an 
old pantaloon leg over his, and fill in around with hot bran. This will 
get up a circulation in the extremities. Then give one and a half 
drachms emetic tartar, two drachms digitalis, three drachms nitre ; keep 
well covered up with warm clothing. Use one ounce cream tartar in 
two quarts tepid water for a drink. Be sure to keep the legs warm by 
hot applications, and bandages. Use these medicines until a cure is ef- 
fected. 



Staggers. 

There is but little of this disease in the Northern States. But it ex- 
ists to a great extent in the South. The food is the principal cause. — 
There is a great quantity of diseased corn used, and too much of any 
kind is generally given, then as much water as he will drink after it, 
which generates an unhealthy gas in the stomach, and causes disten- 
tion. The blood is inflnmed and rushes to the head, and the brain is 
somewhat inflamed. The horse staggers about, or becomes sluggish, 
and stands with his head down ; the eyes glassy. In some cases he will 
rear and fall back, or run ; he will not eat but hold the hay in his 
mouth, and then drop it. He sweats profusely, and in a short time 
will fall and die. First physic with one oz. of aloes dissolved in warm 
water, and give as a drink. In one hour, give half an oz. more of al- 
oes, and continue this until it operates. As soon as the first aloes ar© 



56 EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 

given, blister the head with a strong? fly blister. Apply this over the 
brain, from below the ear, nearly down to the eye. Then bathe the legs 
with as hot water as yon can use, and bandage them with flannel. Keep 
them as warm as possible. Then give one drachm of digitalis, one and 
a half of emetic tarter, three of nitre ; If it is to be repeated, use half 
of the above amount in three hours. Then if he has any disposition to 
eat, give bran mash with one table spoonful of pulverized resin. Use 
this for a week, as he recovers, and feed and water lightly until he re- 
gains his strength. If he is bound up, it may be necessary to use in- 
jections, which are always beneficial. 



Warlles^ Sitfasts, and Stable Galls. 

These are caused, in mnay cases, by using a blanket under the sad- 
dle in hot weather, thus scalding the back, and causing those little 
lumps to appear ; and when they ulcerate they are called sitfasts. The 
ulcer has a calloused spot in the centre when they first make their ap- 
pearance. Rest will remove them, but if the horse is to be used, you 
must remove the stuffing from the pad of the saddle, that the bearing 
may not come on the ulcer. Bathe in strong salt water, to leraove the 
enlargement, but if it does not affect this, and it is really a sitfast, apply 
a blister. This will dissolve it. Then apply the resin and honey oint- 
ment to heal it. A horse Avith high withers, long back and broad loins, 
will make the best saddle nag, and carry his rider with ease. In hot 
weather it is a good practice to bathe the back with salt water when the 
saddle is removed at noon and night. 



For Inflammation of the Lungs in a Horse. 

First, a thorough bleeding ; then give tincture veratrum viride, 
half an oz.; laudanum, four oz.; tincture aconite, one-fourth oz. Shake 
well together, and give a tea spoonful every three or four hours, in some 
water, well sweetened ; and should it not bring down the pulse, the 
dose can be gradually increased to a table spoonful ; and as soon as the 
horse recovers, so as to eat and lie down naturally, keep him on hay 
alone, perhaps with a few carrots, or potatoes, and daily give a bran 
mash, with saltpetre, crude antimony, and sulphur, for ten or fifteen 
days, and you will prevent dropsy of the chest, which is a sequel of the 
disease. 



For Colic in Morses. 

Sulphur ether, one pint; aromatic spirits ammonia, one pint ; sweet 
spirits nitre, two pints ; opium, quarter lb.; asafoetida, pure, half lb., 
put in a large bottle, let it stand fifteen days, with frequent shaking, 
and it will be fit for use. Dose, two oz., from two to four hours, until 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 67 



the horse is relieved. It should be given in water, well sweetened. — 
Another remedj', but always safe ; one oz. of laudanum, one oz. swee5 
spiiits nitre, one oz. tincture asafoetida, one teaspoonful capsicum, three 
oz. carbonate soda, half pint whisky, half pint water. Mix, and give at 
one dose. If not better in twenty-five minutes, repeat half a dose. 



Stoppage of Water, — How treated. 
This disease, in mast cases, is caused by allowing the horse to be- 
come foul, and what is called a beam, thereby forms in the end of the 
penis. The horse will stand and weave, or stretch out, then paw and 
kick his belly with his hind legs. He may drop down in harness, and 
sometimes break out in a profuse sweat. The only thing to be done in 
this case is to draw his yard carefully, and run the finger around the 
head, Avhere you will find two or three hard substances ; withdraw them 
and wash the sheath clean. Mix in about a tablespoonful of mustard 
in the water, so as to keep th^ horse from taking cold, and grease it 
well with lard. In some cases it originates from contraction of the 
muscles of the loins, or inaction of the kidneys. To cure this, bathe 
the loins with hot water for half an hour, then bathe with hot vinegar 
and pepper sauce, then cover the loins with three or four thicknesses of 
blankets. Then mix of turpentine, one oz.; sweet spirits of nitre, two 
oz., and give as a drink. Give bran mash, with one tablespoonful of 
resin in it, every day, for a week, and the cure is complete. 



Coh'e, or Cholera in Mules. 
This appears to be a prevalent disease on the plantations. It is 
brought on by giving too much food and water at one time, and then 
immediately putting them to work. The hard work retards digestion 
and a gas is generated from the food and water, which fills the stomach 
and bowels, and sets the bots at work. This gas would kill the bot ; 
and, to save himself, he bores into the membrane of the stomach, or 
tries to get out at the meat pipe, or by the passage between the stomachs. 
They will thus stop up the passages sometimes, and kill the animal. — 
But if the passages are open, the gas will pass into the bowels, and 
then the disease is colic. He will be much swollen and distressed, 
breathe short and hard, and will fall, or lay down and get up, his eara 
will lop over on one side, and eyes look dull and heavy. When the 
mule is first taken, take him out of the stable and keep him as still as 
possible. In the majority of cases he will recover without the use of 
medicine. If he does not thus get over it, take one oz. laudanum, one 
oz. ether, two tablespoonfuls of soda, two drachms of peppermint, put 
into half a pint of hot gin, and give as a drench. Then give injections 
of one oz. aloes, dissolved in warm water. This is an effectual cure. 



Colts hrought up ly hand. 
It is a frequent remark that cosset colts are worse to break than 
15 



88 EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 

those that have never been handled at to two or three years old. The 
reason is that they are spoiled by petting them, and allowing them to 
do as they please. When playing with colts, you should always make 
them do as you wish ; and then, if they are learned to do as you will in 
playing, they will not become stubborn, when you wish them to work. 
The great object in laying the horse down is to make him understand 
that we can do as we please with them, and then he sees that there is 
no use resenting, and we have gained our point. After this he obeys 
without difficulty, and that stubborn, wilful feeling is subdued. You 
may then teach him anything you please. 



Vegetable Caustic. 

Make a strong lye of hickory or oak ashes, put into an iron kettle, 
and evaporate to the consistency of thin molasses ; then remove into a 
.•iand bath, and continue the evaporation to the consistency of honey. — 
Keep it in a ground stopper glass jar. This caustic is very valuable in 
fistulas, cancers, scrofulas, and indolent ulcers; particulaily when 
there are sinuses necrosis, or decay of bone ; and in all cases where 
there is proud flesh ; and also to excite a healthy action of the parts. 
It removes fungus flesh, without exciting inflammation, and acts but 
little except on spongy or soft flesh. 

To Cure JVarts. 

Take corrosive sublimate, and red precipitate powdered, and mix 
equal parts ; will cure the worst wart in the world, on horses, or cattle. 
If the wart is large and loose, tie a fine, strong cord around it, close to 
the skin. In a short time the wart will come off. Then apply the pow- 
der until the wart is eaten down below the skin ; then wash off", and rub 
on a little sweet oil, and it will soon heal over. If the wart is dry, 
scratch it with the point of a knife, until it bleeds : then rub on the 
powder, it will make a dry scab ; pick off the scab, and put on the pow- 
der again, until it is all eaten off. 

Hoof Medicine. 
Take resin, four oz.; beeswax, five oz.; lard, two lbs.; melt together, 
pour into a pot, add three oz. turpentine, two oz. finely pulverized ver- 
digris, one lb. taliow ; stir together until it gets cold. This is one of 
the best medicines for the hoof ever used. It is good for corks, or 
bruises of the foot. 



To Restore the Appetite. 
Use of pulverized caraway seeds and bruised raisins, four oz. each; 
of ginger and palm oil, two oz. each ; give a small ball once a day 
until the appetite is restored. Use mashes at the same time. 



EVERY MAN UlS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 69 



For Stoppage of the Boivels. 

Take two quarts of soft fresh horse manure, add one quart boiling 
hot water, then strain through a common cloth strainer. Give one pint 
as a drench. This will not fail, for man or beast. For a man, dose one 
teaspoonful every hour until it acts. 



Salve for Man or Horse, 

For all kinds of old sores, use honey and resin, melted together ; 
add lard enough to make a paste. When cool, it is fit for use. There is 
no better salve than this. Its medicinal qualities are excellent. 



To Soften the Feet, 

Spirits of tar, two oz. ; fish oil, fouroz.; this is very penetrating 
to use where the feet are hard and brittle. Rub it in with a brush 
upon the crust and sole every uight. 



Stifle, 

This is a strain of the stifle muscles ; only the stifle joint never 
gets out ; if it should, the horse would be worthless. The stifle shoe 
should never be used. Take the whites of six eggs and two ounces of 
alum, pulverized. Mix well together, and rub on the stifle muscles ; 
dry with a hot iron. One application will probably be sufficient. Then 
take one oz. of sugar lead, one pint of alcohol, mix, and apply three 
times a day, until a cure is eftected. 



Tonics. 



Where it is necessary to use tonics, gentian is the best vegetable, 
especially in chronic debility. It is best united with chamomile and 
ginger, one drachm each. Give in balls. 



Mercurial Ointment. 
Of quicksilver, one oz. ; lard, three oz. Stir until there are no glob- 
ules to be seen. This is used some times in preparing sprains and 
spavins for the regular spavin ointment, rubbed on once a day, before 
the ointment. For all splints, bruises, and swelling of the limbs, use 
thoroughwort and mullen, steeped and applied as hot as possible with 
bandages. 



Spavin and Ringhone, 
Cantharides, four oz.; origanum, two oz. ; sulphate of zinc, one oz.; 
Venice turpentine, three oz. ; oil vitriol, two oz. ; fresh lard one pound. 
Shave the hair from the part diseased, and rub the parts with the medi- 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



cine. You must use your own judgment in using this medicine. That 
is in the length of time necessary to remove the callous. It must be used 
every other day. This will dissolve the ossified substance, and ooze it 
out. ' When you see the lump is diminished enough, then use the same 
astringent as I have directed in the other case; that is white oak bark, 
and alum, a quarter pound to half a gallon of bark juice, boiled down 
to a strong decoction. Use morning and evening. The first named dis- 
ease comes from the lower part of the gambril joint. It is caused by a 
strain or bruise. Either will cause it. This opens the pores and causes 
the joint to become stiff and sore. The horse sometimes becomes lame 
before enlargement is perceptible. In some cases it will continue to 
grow for two years. It will then become a hard bone. The enlarge- 
ment at this stage cannot be removed. You may kill the disease, and 
kill the lameness. The great object with this disease is, to stop the 
leakage. There has nothing been used as an astringent whereby remov- 
ing the lump. Without the astringent, it leaves the parts loose and 
open ; but if used, it stops and closes the pores. Then by letting the 
horse stand until it heaves, becomes firm. Four oz. green euphorbium, 
fine; one oz. Spanish flies, pulverized; four oz. corrosive sublimate, 
four oz. red precipitate, six oz. white pine turpentine, four oz. iodine, 
six oz. lard. Melt the lard and turpentine together. After it is nearly 
cold, add the other articles and stir until it is cold : it is then ready for 
use. Rub the enlargement until it is warm, then rub on the ointment, 
and let it remain twenty-four hours. Then take lard and rub upon it, 
until all of the ointment is taken out. Let it remain one day, then ap- 
ply the medicine again, keep this up until the enlargement is gone. — 
Then use oak bark as an astringent to bathe it in, and bandage until 
well, keeping it well saturated with the oak bark water. You may use 
the same ointment for thoroughpin. After it is blistered sufficiently 
deep, use the oak bark and bandages, until healed. The same for blood 
sprain and wind puffs. It will be necessary to use a pad under the ban- 
dage in thoroughpin to make it bear evenly. Keep the horse quiet 
while using these medicines, and on a low diet. 



Soto to Clean and Oil Harness. 
First take the harness apart, having each strap and piece by itself ; 
then M-ash in warm soap suds. When cleaned, black every part with 
the following dye : — one oz. extract logwood, twelve grains bi-chromate 
of potash, both powdered fine, then put into it two quarts of boiling 
rain water and stir until it is all dissolved. When cool it may be used. 
You can bottle and keep for future use, if you wish. It may be applied 
with a shoe brush, or anything else convenient. When the dye has 
struck in, you may oil each part with neatsfoot oil, applied with a paint 
brush, or any thing else convenient. For second oiling, use one-third 
castor oil, and two-thirds neatsfoot oil, mixed ; a few hours after wipe 
clean with a woolen cloth, which gives the harness aglo.ssy appearance. 



EVBRY UAJS HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



This preparation does not injure the leather, or stitching, makes it soft 
and pliable, and obviates the necessity of oiling as often as is necessary 
by the ordinarj^ method. 



Strength of Food used for Morses. 

It will, perhaps, be interesting to the horseman and farrier to know 
how much nutritive matter is contained in the different kinds of food 
given the horse. The quantity cannot be considered as expressing the 
actual value of each, because other circumstances, besides the simple 
quantity of nutriment, seem to influence their effect in supporting the 
strength and condition of the horse ; yet many a useful hint may be 
learned, when the farmer looks over the produce of his soil. 

1000 parts of Wheat contains 955 parts of nutritive matter. 
" " Barley " 9.50 " " 



Oats ' 


744 


Peas ' 


573 


Beans ' 


' 570 


Potatoes " 


230 


Red Beettt ' 


148 


Parsnips ' 


99 


Carrots ' 


98 



Of the grasses, 1000 parts of the meadow catstail contains, at the time of seed- 
ing, 98 parts of nutritive matter; narrow leaved meadow gr.as8, in seed, and sweet 
scented soft grass, in flower, 95 ; narrow leaved and flat stalked meadow grass, in 
flower, fertile meadow grass in seed, and talefescue in flower, 93; creeping soft 
grass. In flower, 78 ; common turrips, 42 ; long rooted clover, 39 ; white clover, 32; 
and lucern, 23. [Tbe above table is from the Agricultural Chemistry.] 



To Cure Crilling. 
If caused by irritation of the teeth growing too near together, saw 
between the lower and upper front teeth. It a simple habit, arrange 
the stall so as to make it impossible for him to crib. This you can do 
by making the stall plain, with a simple box manger in front, rather low, 
but extending the whole width of the stall. Immediately over the front 
edge of this plain box manger, hang a roller of about six inches in di- 
ameter, on pivots, which must be so arranged that it will turn easily. — 
This roller, extending clear across the manger, offers the only means 
within reach, on which to crib. The horse, in cribbing, will press the 
front teeth firmly upon the roller, pulling it down and towards him, 
which causes the roller to turn from under his mouth, and he is defeat- 
ed in his efforts. There is no trouble in breaking a young horse of this 
habit by this means. A very good way is to feed a horse from a basket, 
hung loosely by a cord to something over head. The roller properly 
adjusted is, however, much the best means. 

To Prevent Horses from Jumping. 
Have a good firm strap halter made, that will fit tbe horse nicely, 
16 



M EV1EKT Man his own HORSE DOCTOR. 

with a wide strap stitched to each side so as to come over the eyes. — 
Cut holes in these straps over each 03'e ; over these eye holes put fins 
wire cloth, sui)ported nicely by wires, so that it will not possibly touch 
the eye. Before a horse attempts jumping over a fence he will put his 
head over to calculate upon the heio])t and distance he is about to jump; 
but by lookino; throuah this wire cloth everything is so magnified in ap- 
pearance, that he is disconcerted in his efforts to do so and is afraid to 

jump. 

Bots, or Griibs. 

There are a great many horses lost Avith this disease. It is impos- 
sible to put. nnything down a horse to kill a bot that would not kill the 
horse. I will take what the most of farriers will prescribe, and kill any 
horse in three or four days ; and I will give you the reasons for it. First, 
the bot never woiks when the stomach is in order. As soon as the gas- 
ses of the stomach become deranged, the bot goes to work; and j'ou 
can derange the stomach by giving strong medicine. The bot works in 
the maw. After he gets woiked in a short distance, you can put noth- 
ing there that he can taste, without letting loose from the Tnaw ; and by 
giving strong medicine, anything that has a tendency to burn, or hurt 
the bot, he would work into the maw to get rid of the medicine ; and if 
you put any sweets down, the bot could not eat it, because his head is, 
in. Now I will give you a sure and a positive cure for this disease. — 
Take a pail half full of hot water, set a quart bottle down in the hot 
water, then bleed the horse in the neck vein, and let the blood run into 
the bottle. When full drench the horse with this hot blood. The blood 
goes to the maw so much hotter than the natural stomach, that the bot 
becomes released and lets loose. He then sucks his fill of this sweet 
blood and passes off from the horse. 

Quinsy. 

The symptoms of this disease are something like inflammation of 
the lungs;* difficulty of breathing, eyes inflamed, nostrils distended, 
breath quick and short. He stands with his head down, and has no 
disposition to move about ; and you will hear a rattling in the throat, 
caused by an accumulation of mucus matter in the glottis or throttle, 
which becomes swollen so as to be perceivable on the outside of the 
throat. A horse with this disease sometimes has an inclination to eat, 
but with the lung fever, never. Q.iinsy is entirely an affection of the 
glands of the head and throat, distinct from the lungs. Take one oz. 
pulverized aloes, to one-half oz. oil of sassafras, mix with a little flour 
to make it stick, and then make into balls the size of a black walnut. 
This quantity is for a dose. Open the mouth, pull out the tongue, put 
the bail on the roots of the tongue. This is the easiest way to give 
medicine. A thick heavy blister" should be drawn on the throat, and a 
mustard or fly poultice to draw the inflammation to the surface. Bathe 



EVEKY MAN HIS OWJT HORSE IX>CTOR. 



the limbs with hot water, and bandage from the hoof to the knee. — 
Batlie three times a day. When he has a disposition to eat, give a 
mash of scalded wheal bran, two quarts, twice a day. Give no hay or 
grain for three or four days. Then, if he breathes easy, you can in- 
crease the feed. Keep the horse from the wind and well blanketed. 



Distemper. 

This is a disease that all colts are liable to, and if taken in time, 
there will be no danger of swelling in the throat. This frequently 
causes thick wind, by distempers breaking in the throat. It becomes a 
callous where the opening in the throat Avas ; then bj'' checking the 
horse up, there is not room for the wind, and he wheezes ; but as soon 
as he stops he breathes easy again. When this disease first makes its 
appearance, bleed freely from the neck vein, then give from half to one 
pint of linseed oil, with three drachms of sassafras oil. This thins and 

purifies the blood. 

Niching. 

There are two different modes of nicking. I will give the best and 
easiest. To make a horse carry an elegant tail, is attended with some 
uncertainty. It much depends upon the spirit, disposition, form, and 
vigor of the bone of the tail. A horse of good spirit, tolerable shape, 
and a small bone in the tail, can be made to carry an elegant tail with 
the greatest ease ; particularly if he carries a tolerable natural tail ; but 
a dull, leather-headed, flop-eared horse, with a remarkably large bone 
in the tail, will set you a task, although you may break the bone in two 
or three places. Indeed, there is so much difference in horses, that 
some judgment must be exercised about the best mode to be adopted 
for the accomplishment of the object in view. Nothing can more dis- 
figure the appearance of a horse than to be half nicked. The form of 
the tail, when this unfortunately happens, departs from the simplicity 
of nature, and never attains the elegance of art. I shall now proceed 
to the best method of nicking every description of horse ; and which, 
if attended to, will seldom or never fail to succeed. The horse should 
be confined in stocks, fitted for that purpose. The tail then should be 
platted up and clubbed at the end, turned over a small stick, and secure- 
ly tied with a string. Being prepared with a knife, made for that pur- 
pose, turn the tail up in a direct line with the back. Commence the 
operation by making an incision about one inch from the rump, close to 
the hair ; cut the cords in one place, on each side, leaving an incision 
only about the size of the knife blade. Be very careful not to touch the 
bone with the knife, for if so, it would create inflammation, and the hair 
would come out. Great pains should be taken to have the weights 
equal, in order to keep the tail in a perpendicular direction, and pre- 
vent it from turning to either side during the time of healing ; as a 
horse that carries his tail to one side, instead of being elegantly nicked. 



Qi EVMIY MAK HIS OWN HOU8E DOCTOR. 



is ruined. The horse many times carries a crooked tail before he has 
been nicked. To straighten the tail, cut the top cord. The under cord 
depresses the tail, and the top one raises it. When standing the tail is 
straight. You will see at once that it is the top cord. In cutting the 
cord, to straighten, cut the long cord, and the short cord will pass by 
on a lap, and gi-ow together, leaving the tail as strong as ever. Pulling 
is not required in straightening the tail. 



Scours. 



This is a disease which requires no description. You will know it 
when it comes. It is the same as cholera in a man. but is very easy to 
manage. In a warm climate it is very dangerous, as two-thirds of the 
horses taken with it die in less than four days. Boil red or Avhite oak 
baik to a strong ooze ; put two tablespoonfuls of cream of tartar to 
one quart of this decoction. Give to diink, or as a drench. Then use 
the bark water for injection. Keep this up until the purging is stopped. 
Then give a mash of scalded wheat bi-an twice a day. Give no hay or 
grain, or you will cause a relapse. He will have a good appetite, but 
be very careful for several days^ and when you commence feeding, feed 
very light. A positive cure. 

Blind Staggers. 

The cause of this disease is too much food and water. In giving 
as much as a horse can eat, then give as much water as he will drink in 
driving. The grain becomes swollen and the stomach distressed by un- 
digested food. The distention of the stomach prevents the passage of 
the blood, which causes it to flow to the head, and makes him crazy 
and blind. Sometimes he will fall back, at other times run, and is apt 
to run off from a bluff, or against any object that may be in his way. — 
If the disease is in its worst stages, split the skin of the forehead and 
fill with salt and black pepper. Then, if you can get sassafras roots, 
boil them to a tea and give one gallon twice a day. Bleed one gallon 
from the neck vein. Feed light with bran mash. Do not use any very 
hearty food for two weeks. This is a safe cure. 

For Weakness across the Loins. 

This originates, many times, from a stoppage of water. It is not 
always what would be called gravel. It may be from contraction of 
the muscles across the loins. The more the horse strains the more con- 
traction it would cause. He becomes stiff and it is difficult for him to 
•move his hind parts. Give one oz. pulverized aloes, one oz. sweet spirits 
of nitre, one oz. oil sassafras ; give this at one dose, made into small 
balls. Then bathe the loins with hot pepper sauce. Blanket the horse 
well, putting several thicknesses over the Joina. As soon as he can 



EVERY MA]Sr Hie OWJjJ" fiORBE DOCTOR. 66 

stand give two quarts of bran mash, with one table spoonful of pow- 
dered resin. Give this for three days, and keep the loins as warm as 
possible. Also use this liniment ; two oz. origanum, two oz. oil of sas- 
safras, two oz. spirits turpentine ; mix well together, bathe twice a day. 

' Stocked or Swollen Legs. 

This is caused by sudden heats and colds. Bathe the legs from the 
hoof to the knee in as hot water as he will bear, and then bandage them. 
The hot water opens the pores and thins the blood that has become 
thick and will not circulate well. Make a strong tea of sassafras roots 
and give it to drink. If this is not to be bad, give as a purge one pint 
of linseed oil, half an oz. of oil sassafras. Feed light. Give bran mash 
with one tablespoonful of cream tartar for a few nights. 

How to Ease Horse Distemper. 

If the glands of the neck are not swollen much, give half of a small 
paper of chewing tobacco, morning and evening, in a warm bran mash, 
and give no hay, but a little cut straw, wet with bran mixed in. If the 
glands of the neck are swollen, then apply a warm poultice, made of 
wheat bran and hot vinegar, changing as often as it gets dry, and be 
sure to get down him all the flaxseed tea you can, or slippery elm tea 
will answer, and let this be his constant drink. Be cautious to keep the 
horse from taking cold in any way, and keep on a blanket. Thus you 
will save many a noble animal. Be cautious never to bleed your horse 
during the horse distemper, or physic him any more than you are able 
to do with the bran mash. 



Bemedy for Bots, 

Which will cure them in a few days. Eight oz. oil of turpentine, one 
qt. alcohol ; mix and bottle for use. Dose, five oz. in the feed, once a 
day, for eight days. This will effectually remove them. 

For Inflamed Swellings^ or Lame Shoulder. 
Equal parts oil of amber, oil of spike, camphor gum, and ether. 

To Cure Heaves. 

Oil tar, one oz. ; oil amber, one oz. ; mix, and give twenty drops in 
feed, daily. 

Physic Ball. 
Barbadoes aloes, one lb. ; syrup buckthorn, three oz. ; codliver oil, 
three oz. ; melt the whole and stir till cold. In winter, add a little wa- 
ter. Make into eighteen pills, and give one every four hours, or as 
much as will move the bowels. 17 



06 EVERY MAW HIS OWW HORSE DOCTOR. 



Diuretic Drops, 

That are reliable for stoppage of water, foul water, or inflammation of 
tlie kidneys, in all cases. Take of sweet spirits of nitre, four oz. ; 
balsam copaiba, two oz. ; oil juniper, two oz. ; spirits turpentine, two 
oz. ; gum camphor, pulverized, one oz. ; mix all together, and shake 
well. Buttle, and it is for use, for man or beast, under all circumstan- 
ces where a diuretic is required. Dose for a horse, one ounce in half a 
pint of milk, once in six hours. For a man, one tea spoonful in a table 
spoonful of milk, once in six hours. Be sure to shake the ingredients 
up well before turning out for use. 



Colic. 
This is caused by giving too much feed and water, or by Avatering 
often on the road. The water reduces the juices of the stomach, disa- 
bling digestion, and causing the grain to swell, generates a gas in the 
stomach which, passing into the bowels, causes the acute pain and colic. 
He becomes restive, lies down, rolls about, and gives many signs of 
pain. Many times the horse has bots and colic at the same time. The 
only difference in the symptoms being that in colic the ears are cold, 
aiid in hols they are warm. Take one and a half oz. of laudanum, one 
07. ether, two tablespoonfuls soda, in half pint warm water. Give as 
a drench. Do not exei'cise the horse with this disease, as exercise 
causes the gases to move from one part of the bowels to another, each 
time causing pain ; therefore keep him as quiet as possible. 

Fistula and Pole Evil. 

These diseases are both of the same nature, caused b}^ a bruise, 
and tlie other part becomes swollen, and a mattery substance forms in 
the flesh ; and, as the disease becomes seated, it fills in with pips, and 
roots, and mcreases the inflammation. When this disease first makes 
its ajjpearance it can be driven away by bliste.-ing, and drawing the in- 
flammation to one point; but after it foj-ms in roots, or pips, the only way 
of getting rid of it is to eat out or kill the roois of ihe disease. The 
most eftectual way of doing this is to take one oz. of pulverized euphor- 
bium. one-hilf oz. i)ulv. Spanish flies, one-half oz. tinct. cantharides, one 
oz. iodine, one oz. corrosive sublimate, one oz. red precijMtate, one and 
half oz. wiiite pine turpentine, one and a half oz. lard ; melt the lard and 
turpentine toaether. and when it becomes blood warm, as it is cooling 
o(f, add the other articles. Use a large dish to mix them in, for when 
you put them together the mixture will foam. Stir until cool. It is 
then ready for use. If the sore has not broken, use it on the outside 
until you draw the disease to the surface. If it has broken put the 
salve in the wound. It will eat out all of the diseased flesh. When you 
wish to heal the wound, wash clean with soap, then use as a salve, pow- 
dered resin and honey, — the best healing salve for horseflesh ever used. 



EVERY MAN HIS OWW HORSE DOCTOR. 67 



Scratches. 
This is a disease that effects great injury to the horse, if not check- 
ed in time. In many cases the legs become swollen to the gambrel, and 
finally calloused, so that it would be impossible ever to remove it ; but 
if taken in time it will be easily managed. First, wash clean with soap 
and soft Xv-ater, then take pulverized verdigris and sprinkle on the out- 
side. T/j IS will kill the bad flesh. Repeat, for several days until it has 
a heaiQj"} ai|eit.-irance. Then wash and i^ will heal. There is another 
disease springK^'iVom the same, called gr-r.^se heel, which will require 
something more po'^\ ^^rfnj . .-T?hT.iL a" week, t potash. This will take 
off the bad flesh very'ictWill be all you can do. '^.iseased flesh is taken 
off, then wash clean. Use the resm and honey salve. The horse should 
be thoroughly bled, and a pint of linseed oil, as a purge, should be 
given to cleanse the blood. 



Cure for Wind Galh, 
Olive oil, three oz.; nitric acid, one oz.; rubbed in as much daily, 
or every second or third day, as it will bear, without starting the hair. 

Corns^ — IIoiv to Cure them. 

Corns are generally caused by the shoe being worn too long. They 
appear in the angle of the hoof, near the heel. Cut the corn well down, 
but not to the quick ; fit the shoe so that it does not press upon that 
part, then saturate well with pine sap, or gum, which is found exuding 
from pine tree«. When cut, fill the parts nicely wiih tow, and put on 
the shoe ; remembering that the shoe must be so fitted as not to oblige 
the part to support but very slightly, if any, the weight of the horse. — 
Horses with corns must be oftener and more carefully shod than those 

free from them. 

For KicJcs, Bruises, Cuts, or Swollen Legs. 

Bathe the swollen parts with hot water, three times a day. As 
soon as you are through bathing, bandage the leg, but not tight. Take 
off the bandase every time you bathe. By using hot water, it opens 
the pores, and leaves everything soft and pliable, entirely removes the 
swelling, and prevents it from becoming calloused. If the cut is large, 
and a bad sore, use the resin and honey salve, which is the most healing 
of anything that can be used. Horses that cut themselves by interfer- 
ing, and the pastern becomes swollen and sore, bathe with hot water. It 
will keep it from enlarging, and will heal it up and leave the leg smooth. 
Liniments are very bad usually, they thicken the skin and leave the 
parts affected enlarged, but by bathing and bandaging it will leave the 
leg as smooth as before the cut. 



Weak Eyes. 
There is no such disease as Hocks. It is only caused by inflararaa- 



ETERY MAN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR. 



tion, which causes the washer of the eye to become swollen and pro- 
trude out, and some say this is Hocks. They never should be cut. By 
rowelling aL the side of the eye, it will draw the inflammation from the 
eye to the surface, and cure the disease. Sometimes the eye becomes 
weak from wolf teeth. These should be knocked off. They will be 
found on the upper jaw. I would not advise the use of medicine in the 
eye. It will increa^ -. the inflammation. 



Spruna Knees and Springhalt i,aQ> 
These diseases are S ^^^^"^ ^^^^ '■'^^' ^ is contraction of the 

muscles, caused b\ a, ^ , ^ _ .ong standing. Springhalt 

comes from these •- auses. Sprung knee is invariably caused by a strain, 
wliich contracts the muscle of the arm. By the contraction of the 
muscle, it draws the cord, and causes the knee to get weak and crooked. 
The cords are swollen, which causes persons to doctor the cords. This 
Avill do no good, for it is impossible to relax a cord. In fact, the cord 
itself is not contracted, it is ihe contraction of the muscle which draws 
the cord. So by relaxing the muscle, it would drop the cords to their 
proper places, and give relief. Springhalt is the same. It is the con- 
traction of the inside muscle of the thighs. By relaxing the muscle 
you cure the disease. Take the common land turtle and try them down, 
and use ihe oil by rubbing on the muscle. This will relax and cure the 

disease. 

Blistering. 

The most effectual blister is to make a blister ointment, as follows : 
One drachm of flies, one drachm of resin, four oz. lard ; melt the resin 
and lard together, then add the flies. Bub the parts with the hand 
imtil you create a heat, then apply the blister. This is good for strain 
in the pastern. The best liquid blister is cantharides and turpentine, 
equal parts. 

Thumps in the Sorse. 

This disease is caused by too much food and water, and fast driv- 
ing. By filling the stomach with food and water, then driving fast, 
the stomach becomes distressed with undigested food, which prevents 
the inflating of the lur.gs. The muscles of the lungs become sore and 
weak, and cause them to thump. If this disease is of long standing, it 
will be incurable ; but by a moderate quantity of water, and a reason- 
able quantity of grain, you will prevent this disease. It is brought on 
entirely by heavy feeding and waterin;?, with fast driving. 

Big Head and Big Jaw. 
These diseases are something the same as sprain. The bony sub- 



EVERY MAN HIS OWJJT HORSE DOOTOE. CQ 



stances form a deposit and become ossified. Whilst this disease is m a 
gristly substance,- it can be cured ; but after it becomes ossified, it will 
be incurable. Two oz. gum euphorbium, fine ; one oz. Spanish fiies, 
fine; 'two oz. corrosive sublimate, two oz. iodine, three oz. white pine 
turpentine, three oz. lard. Melt the lard and turpentine together, then 
add the others. This, if a cure is possible, will effect it. The horse 
should be kept dry, and not fed very hearty. Use bran mashes with 
one tablespoonful of saltpeter, twice a week. Give one pint of linseed 
oil the first week. This will be all you can do. 

Crihling. 

This disease originates from a sour stomach, first caused by habit 
in biting the crib whilst eating ; and in so doing, the ho)se swallows 
wind which causes the stomach to become sour. Over-eating and drink- 
ing would aid in this disease. A horse with this disease is the same as 
a person that belches, and in the end, the same as a dyspeptic. Take 
one tablespoonful pulv. charcoal, and one tablespoonful sal soda, every 
other day until a cure is effected. The horse should be fastened in 
some place where he cannot get hold of anything to bite. Fasten in 
the middle of the floor, and feed him from a basket fastened on the 
head. By this means he will forget the habit of biiing his trough. 



To Recruit a Horse that is Hidehoimd^ or otherwise out of order. 

Saltpeter, four oz.; crude antimony, one oz.; sulphur, three oz. — 
The saltpeter and antimony .should be finely pulverized, then add the 
sulphurand mix the whole well together. i)ose, one tablespoonf.M in 
a bran mash, dailv. 



How Horses can he taught to iwrform trichs. 

Many of the readers of this book may desire to learn something of 
the mode of teaching horses such tricks as they may be able to accom- 
plish. It will gratify me, therefore, if I afford them such informa- 
tion on this head as will prove interesting and useful, recommending to 
them that no horse should have more than two lessons per diem, of not 
less than half, not to exceed three-quarters of an hour in length. 

To make him Low. — Take a pin in your right hand, between the 
thumb and fore finger, and stand before, but a little to the left of your 
horse; then prick on the breast very lightly, as if a fly was biting; 
which, to relieve, he will bring down his head, which you will accept as 
yes, and for which you will reward in the usual manner by caressing 
and feeding. Then repeat, and so continue until he brings down the 
head the moment he sees the least motion of your hand towards his 
breast ; or subsiitute some signal which he will understand readilv. 

18 



70 £rv®RY MAN Hie OWJS HOR9E DOC^R. 



To mahe him say^ ^^Koy — Stand by your house near the shoulder, 
holding the pin in your hand, with which ])nck-him liorhtly on the 
withers. To drive it away, he will shake his head. You then caress as 
before, and so repeatin^j until he will shake his head at the least indica- 
tion of your touchiufT him with a pin. You can train your hoi se so 
niceiv in this w\ay, in a short time, as to cause him to shake his head, or 
bow, by merely turninn; the hand a little, or moving it towards him. 

To teach him to kiss you. — Teach him first to take an apple out of 
your hand; wlien gradually raise the hand nearer the mouth, at each 
repetition, until you require him to take it from your mouth ; holdinor 
it with the hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you. H«; will soon 
leai-n to reach his nose up to your mouth ; first, to get his apple, but 
finally, because commanded to do so. Simply repeat until perfect. 

To shrike hands. — Tip a short strap to the forward foot, below the 
fetlock. Stand directly behind the horse, holding the end of the sti-ap 
in your hand. Then say, "shake hands, sir ;" and immediately after 
connnanding him to do so, pull upon the strap, which will bring his foot 
lip, and which you are to accept as shaking hands; thanking him for it 
by caressing and feeding. By a little practice, a horse may be easily 
trained to approach, make a bow, shake hands, lie down, sit up, follow 
like a dog, etc. 

To make him sit tip. — When your horse will lie down readily, you 
can then teach him to sit up like a dog, easily. If young, not very 
lieavy, or strong, you can easily prevent his getting up without tying 
him down. First, cause him to lie down, having on him a common bri- 
dle with the reins over his neck. Then step behind him and place the 
right foot firmly upon the tail, the reins in your hand. Then say, "Get 
up, sir." Your standing on his tail will prevent his raising any further 
than on his fore feet. Repeat a few times. Use good judgment, caress, 
reward, and j'ou will soon have the trick taught perfectly. 

To make a Foundered and Spavined Horse cjo off limber. — Take one oz. 
tinct. cayenne, two oz. laudanum, one pint alcohol. Rub the shoulders 
well with warm water, then rub the above on his shoulders and back- 
bone. Give him one oz. of laudanum and one pint of gin. Put it down 
his throat with a pint bottle. Put his feet in warm water as hot as he 
can bear. Take a little spirits of turpentine, rub it on the bottom part 
of his feet with a sponge, after taking them out of the water. Drive 
him about half a mile, or a mile, until he comes out as limber as a rag. 
If he does not surrender to his pain, tie a thin cord around the end of 
his tongue. 

To make old Horses appiear young. — Take one oz. tinct. of asafoetida, 
one oz. tinct. cantharides, one oz. oil of cloves, one oz. oil of cinnamon, 
two oz. antimony, one oz. fenugreek, and one gallon of fourth-proof 
brandy ; let it stand tfen days. "Dos^q, ten drops in one gallon of water. 



EV^RT ^f AN HIS OWN HORSE DOCTOR 



To make a Horse appear as if founder eel. — Take a fine wire and fasten 
it around the pastern joint at niglit. Smootli tlie hair down over it 
nicely, and by morning he will walk as stiff as if foundered. 

To mahe a Horse ftcsliy in a short time. — Feed with buckwheat bran, 
to which add a little of the shorts. Keep him in a dark stable. Haifa 
day's drive will make a horse fatted in this poor way. 

I'o maJce a Horse stand by his feed and ?iot eat it. — Grease the front 
teeth and roof of the mouth with common tallow, and he will not eat 
until you wash it out. 

To malce a irue-pulling Horse haulh. — Take one oz. tinct. of canthar- 
ides, and one drachm of corrosive sublimate. Mix together and bathe 
the shoulders at night. 

Hoio to distinguish between Distemper and Glanders. — The discharge 
from the nose, if glanders, will sink in water ; if distemper, it will not. 

iZo«' to make a Horse appear as if he had the Glanders. — Melt fresh 
butter and pour in his ears. 



THE END 



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